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1984 Volvo DL Questions & Answers
The brake lights in my volvo 240 dl (89) aren't
Brake booster is a vacuum device connected to the intake manifold. Pressing the brake pedal briefly changes the conditions in the manifold and is likely to affect engine idle speed.
A test lamp is more use than a voltmeter for those types of checks because it is low impedance and therefore draws a more useful amount of current which tends to test connections and provides a quick positive result.
The two wires from the brake light switch - one should be at battery potential and when connected to the other directly or via the stop lamp switch that supply should appear at the rear of the car when tested against an independent ground. If ok the fault is with the lamps, bulbs, connections or lamp grounds and if not ok the fault is the cable between the switch and the rear of the car.
It is important to ensure the bulbs are good by testing them independently. It isn't unknown for both to fail at the same time. The 380 and 382 bulb has internal fusing and can fail and still appear to be ok.
Radiator fluid
remove cap from radiator and poor it in. when full replace cap and you have done it...hope this helps and please rate this post.
1984 240 gl keeps breaking
Have you tried replacing the fuel pump relay? That is a very common problem on 240s. The fuel pump relay is under the dash, above your passenger's feet on later 240s. So far as I know it was in the same spot on earlier 240s like yours.
Volvo 1984 StnWagon Dl turns over but dies when taking off the ga
NO Diesel engines dont have spark plugs so dont worry about it as the ones you have should be ok BUT first check the length of the plug thread to the ones you took out, are they the same as they have to be the correct length and not any diffreance also the earth tip on the end
If they look the same 100% your ok to go. RON
11/16/2009 12:22:38 AM •
1984 Volvo DL
•
Answered
on Nov 16, 2009
Fanbelt
Read what you wrote
There is nothing there ---- just fanbelt
Does your car stop running after a short time, and start again after you wait a...
I've seen many questions in the vehicle section that concern this problem, and there is an almost universal answer.
On an older vehicle, the fuel pump is often quite worn out, and it is never checked, because of accesability issues.
When they start to fail due to perfectly normal wear and tear, the common symptom is a temporary "failure" while driving. The car can usually be driven again after the fuel pump cools down and operates normally again, usually 15 - 30 minutes.
There are three items that must be replaced when this happens. First of all is the fuel pump itself, and anything else that is replaceable in the tank that concerns the fuel system.
Second, is the fuel filter, just as a matter of course.
Third is the fuel pump relay, as they tend to fail at the same time as the pump, if not sooner.
I hope this answers many of the problems that you, the readers, are having with your cars.
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