2005 Volvo V40 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

• Sounds like your ABS sensor needs replaced. The speed sensors sends signals to the computer for the ABS and that is the sent to the speedometer. No ABS - No signal.

• To get to your ABS sensor you can jack the car up and remove the tire and it will be inside (on the top) of the HUB (bearings) on the spindle. When you remove the ABS sensor follow these steps to test each one before replacing it.

1. Remove the ABS sensor.
2. You will see two contact points on the end of the plug.
3. Get a multi meter and set it to Ohms and put negative to negative and positive to positive from your multi meter to the contacts on the ABS sensor. You should get the same reading of Ohms as the sensor is. If not then it needs replaced. You did not list the year, make or engine size of your Volvo so at this point I cannot tell you the Ohm rating of your sensors. You can find this information out in your car manual or a simple call to a parts store.

• That being said the alternator going bad can do this too. But there is more symptoms to go with the ones you expressed. The car may ****, things may not be working as usual, lack of power. These are because the alternator goes bad and the battery can not keep up and the car could die sometime.

Regards, Tony

hi.
you have probably got water in part of the electrics somewhere.
simplest thing to try is a water repellent lubricating spray. spray any electrical plugs you can see in the area you pressure washed it. also spray any ignition units that you can see. if it is a petrol, spray the HT leads going to the spark plugs and the inside of the distributor . then leave it for 30 minutes and try starting up.

repeat if necessary.

if this does not work, you will probably need to open each plug and spray inside both parts and reconnect. this should cure the problem, but may take some time as there are quite a lot of plugs.

their isnt one ,if the wires have burnt the insulation on the exhaust then its cut and join type job with some new wire and make sure they are affixed so they cannot touch anything else in the future

If you're asking what the mileage should be between oil changes don't go by what the owner's manual tells you, it's best to change the oil and filter at least every 3 to 4 thousand miles miles as it's a cheap insurance to make your engine last longer with minimal sludge build up in the engine.

CHECK THE FUSE

km/h guage daigram volvo 740 1990

That should be a 13mm.

look on fixya.com for an auto manual that you can download. other than that look at webresorceful.com for your manual for a price. tryed to find one for free with little response. but i did try! thank you for choosing fixya.com! you may try this; post your questions to fixya.com for a solution to your problem and there are thousands of techs out there that may have your solution for free! suggest you at least try that before you purchase the manual online! oncallmech

Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. You can read below to know the likely cause of the problem.

1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

GET A GOOD FUSE TESTER, TEST EACH FUSE. THERE ARE 2 FUSEBOXES. ONE UNDER THE HOOD & ONE IN THE DASH. ALL FUSES CAN BE TESTED WHILE STILL IN PLACE. THERE ARE TEST POINTS FACING OUT. TURN ON IGNITION SWITCH FOR THIS TEST. POWER ON 1 SIDE, BAD FUSE POWER ON BOTH SIDES, GOOD FUSE. POWER ON NEITHER SIDE, SPARE FUSE.

SRS systems are extremely complicated for the average person to work on, and they carry a risk of injury in doing so as well. My suggestion for this would be to take the car to a reputable dealer to have them look at it.

This manual is available online. If you need a different one, the site has others also.
Try this link.

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2003/2003_SV40/03sv40_00.htm

bearing worn renew the clutch is official answer but it could run like this for another year or more

Either a trunk seal or tail light is most likely the issue. Dry the area out and run a hose over the trunk, while trying to say away from the tail light. Then do the same with the tail light, this should let you know where your leak is coming from

Hi, sometimes vacuum hoses get leaks that create the problem, then the computer compensates to correct it. The belt is not the culprit.
The throttle position sensor also plays a part, and in combination with a vac leak, can display an annoyingly wide variety of symptoms that are difficult to separate and trace down.
Get a can of carb cleaner with the little spray tube, start the engine and let it idle to warm up. Spray a little on each vac connector, around the base of each injector or the throttle body, and see if the rpms run up. If so, you may have pinpointed a leak that needs tightening down.
Vac hoses can often just have the split end trimmed off and reconnected. The hard plastic spaghetti lines may be so brittle they need to be completely replaced. Manifold and throttle body bolts can be tightened up, but occasionally the gasket may need replacing.

Start with that and you'll have it out of the way for any further diagnostics.

Best thing is get a diagnostic test done to your car.

does it have a nice little symbol in it ?? whats the symbol

This sounds to me like you may have a bad master switch. Everything with the windows goes back to the master switch before it will work.

check the ball joints

Hi,
I think the problem is not the alternator but the conection in the 120Amp fuse to the main engine fuse box.
The actual contacts to the spade fuse are enclosed and the contact area cannot be cleaned (scraped) easily. The fuse does not pull out like the rest but is bolted in with two bolts (one 8mm and one 10mm) No one knows this at first, release the bolts on either side and work the spade fuse up and down many times to score the contact area.
When I first tested it it was showing some 20 ohms with a high impedance meter but after it was cleaned it showed close enough to zero.
The high resistance connection on the 120Amp fuse may have caused a volt drop (with all systems on ie engine, air, wipers, and headlights) sufficient to drop out the engine relay and it conk it out. It starts again readily but the low voltage may cause the stop light warning light to come on.
Volvo had the car for two weeks and couln't fault it after I did the clean and replaced the engine relay - but they didn't charge me - so good on them. They quoted me $1400 to fit a new alternator saying they had seen the problem before and they replaced the alternator and the cable which may have inadvertantly fixed the bad connection on the 120Amp fuse.
I worked for Volvo Truck for a couple of years as a contract Production Engineer but when sales went down I was moved on - guess I was too much of a smart arse. Renault owns them now - predictable I should have thought.

Run a new wire from opposite head light so it operates both, prob just bad connection due to corrosion.