20 Most Recent 2004 Volvo V40 Wagon - Page 6 Questions & Answers

bearing worn renew the clutch is official answer but it could run like this for another year or more

Either a trunk seal or tail light is most likely the issue. Dry the area out and run a hose over the trunk, while trying to say away from the tail light. Then do the same with the tail light, this should let you know where your leak is coming from

Hi, sometimes vacuum hoses get leaks that create the problem, then the computer compensates to correct it. The belt is not the culprit.
The throttle position sensor also plays a part, and in combination with a vac leak, can display an annoyingly wide variety of symptoms that are difficult to separate and trace down.
Get a can of carb cleaner with the little spray tube, start the engine and let it idle to warm up. Spray a little on each vac connector, around the base of each injector or the throttle body, and see if the rpms run up. If so, you may have pinpointed a leak that needs tightening down.
Vac hoses can often just have the split end trimmed off and reconnected. The hard plastic spaghetti lines may be so brittle they need to be completely replaced. Manifold and throttle body bolts can be tightened up, but occasionally the gasket may need replacing.

Start with that and you'll have it out of the way for any further diagnostics.

Best thing is get a diagnostic test done to your car.

does it have a nice little symbol in it ?? whats the symbol

This sounds to me like you may have a bad master switch. Everything with the windows goes back to the master switch before it will work.

check the ball joints

Hi,
I think the problem is not the alternator but the conection in the 120Amp fuse to the main engine fuse box.
The actual contacts to the spade fuse are enclosed and the contact area cannot be cleaned (scraped) easily. The fuse does not pull out like the rest but is bolted in with two bolts (one 8mm and one 10mm) No one knows this at first, release the bolts on either side and work the spade fuse up and down many times to score the contact area.
When I first tested it it was showing some 20 ohms with a high impedance meter but after it was cleaned it showed close enough to zero.
The high resistance connection on the 120Amp fuse may have caused a volt drop (with all systems on ie engine, air, wipers, and headlights) sufficient to drop out the engine relay and it conk it out. It starts again readily but the low voltage may cause the stop light warning light to come on.
Volvo had the car for two weeks and couln't fault it after I did the clean and replaced the engine relay - but they didn't charge me - so good on them. They quoted me $1400 to fit a new alternator saying they had seen the problem before and they replaced the alternator and the cable which may have inadvertantly fixed the bad connection on the 120Amp fuse.
I worked for Volvo Truck for a couple of years as a contract Production Engineer but when sales went down I was moved on - guess I was too much of a smart arse. Renault owns them now - predictable I should have thought.

Run a new wire from opposite head light so it operates both, prob just bad connection due to corrosion.

5w/40 semi synthetic

sonds like battery is bad or there is a parasidic drain on the battery like an item plugged in the cigarette lighter overnight or long periods of time with car off

use a hammer pound them back throw

go under the car and look for it, get a pan and make sure it doesnt go all over you. you gotta have a special tool to take it off

and you know this, how?