20 Most Recent 1997 Mercury Mountaineer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

remove the brake caliper and rotor then undo the axle nut and disconnect the lower ball joint and separate from the spindle assembly. pull the outer cv joint out from the spindle and pull out the half shaft. you may have to remove the speedometer drive gear before removing the half shaft. installation in reverse order.

One before cad conv and one after on exhaust. Total of 4

With belt off spin pulleys and feel for slop. Bearing going bad?

Get an o2 sensor socket from napa about ten bucks unscrew them put new ones in there located before and after the catalytic convertor on the actual exhaust pipe

I'm unclear what you mean by "#13 stops", Chris... but a pulsating current draw from the battery MAY be turn signals or emergency four-way flashers.

there should be a little plastic end that sticks out that faces break pedal arm

check out the emergency flasher relay - may need new one.

bad earth to the ofending lights, burnt out flasher unit, worn switch. all assuming youv checked the fuse fisrt, after that check the flasher unit which should be in or near the fuse box and it will look like a rely so make sure youv got the manual or guide book befor you start pulling out the relays

hi ,having troubled with rusted lines?best way to do it is getting a few pre-double flared segments of brake lines of different lenght,a couple union and a bending tool(it could be a special pliers or a rounding shape tool,very cheap at harbort freight or any major autopart shop) tha would be of a lot of help and speed.as far as the base of the question(routing the lines) this particular vehicle has extra holding clips to add another line,so the procedure is eliminate the factory brake lines and just another line(s) by just following the course and contorsions of the older ones and bleed the lines once you done.the image it's not from a suv but basically same concept.

A Simple 5/8 deep socket( get a spark plug socket they work nicer) and get some extensions and a ratchet and some swivels. I like to use 3/8 size tools. Once in a while a 1/2 tools may be nice if a plug is not coming out. Next soak the plugs in the engine with some penetrating oil if they are giving you a hard time. dont use alot, just 2 seconds of spraying. Allow engine to cool off to air temp. This will allow thing to not burn you or for you to damage the soft threads in the aluminum head. Changing plugs have not changed much on these vehicles than vehicles in the past. Just remove the spark plug boots carefully. Now you can remove each spark plug. Use the extensions and swivels in many combinations if one is not working easy enough. Always make sure you know what gap these plugs need to be and set them. Always use an Anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the spark plugs. This will prevent them from under torquing and getting stuck in the future. Put preferably new spark plug wires back on and use Dielectric grease to prevent the boots from sticking to the spark plugs and from moisture getting in between them.The first 30 seconds or so of running may be rough if you decide to use penetrating oil to loosen the spark plugs. This is why you should us as little as needed. More oil makes for longer crap running time. Just let the engine idle on its own and clear it out on its own. Dont rev the engine or force anything until it warms up to normal operating temps. Cold engines and revving is not good for internal parts. Good luck :)

Spark plug wires just pull off and press back on. Make sure you grasp the wires by the rubber boot only. If you pull the wires by the wires, instead of using the boot, you can break the wires. Remove the plugs with a 3/8" ratchet, extension and a spark plug socket. I do not know if you have to remove anything to get access to the spark plugs and spark plug wires. You may need a universal joint to angle the ratchet.

The key chime in ignition cylinder is shorting out against the steering column. Turn key on, take a very thin long pin and at the underside of the steering column cover there's a small hole, push pin until you feel a metal tab pushing up,pull out the cylinder. You will see a little metal tab pushed up against the ignition cylinder wall.the plastic piece that keeps it in place is probably broken. You can put a piece of electrical tape on it and be done with it, but chime won't work at all, the down side of this....the only eay to replace that key chime id to buy the clockspring, around $250 plus labor, steering wheel has to be removed. ..

The flasher relay is located on top of the fuse box under the steering wheel. You will have to unscrew fuse box and disconnect it to access the top of the box. The relay is the oversized fuse and has 5 prongs.

might be better to take the vehicle as a whole and let the repairer remove the tranny , i know will cost more but you then will have to put it back in not knowing if the repair was ok , then your no better of,if you want to take it out yourself get a workshop manual to show step by step as no one could type all the info here ,might find a online manual try a forum that is specific to your vehicle as they will probably have the information you require etc

loose or broken linkage inside the door.

Google the question It is on the internet & you can print it

bank 2 is the side cylinder 2 is

Sounds like a bad neutral safety switch on the transmission