1991 Jeep Wrangler - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

if it's been running less than a half an hour, it's possible that the lifters haven't filled up to pressure yet; it has to idle a while to stabilize. if it's not that, then look at your ignition timing and your firing order.

I can't remember if that year has a clutch master cylinder or not. Check to see if it does, it will be next to the brake master cylinder, and look like a single round silver dollar sized vesle. To the left of your brake master cylinder. check if its bone dry, if so refill it.

if this is not the case and it does not have a master cylinder, you need to check your clutch out.

Sounds like the clutch was misaligned during install. That would make it hard or impossible to get into gear.

if the fuse blew for the fuel gauge, it would keep ALL of your gauges from working, It sounds like your fuel gauge sending unit.

1. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Raise and support vehicle. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder screw on bleed line of slave cylinder. See Fig. 1 (attached in link) . Place other end of hose in glass container 1/2 full of brake fluid. Loosen bleeder screw while holding bleeder screw fitting.

2. Have an assistant depress clutch pedal to the floor. Tighten bleeder screw and release clutch pedal. Repeat bleeding procedure until fluid entering container is free of bubbles. DO NOT allow reservoir to run out of fluid during bleeding. Refill clutch master cylinder reservoir.

CAUTION: DO NOT allow bleed line to bend or flex when loosening
bleeder screw.

FIG1: http://anubiscycle.com/fixya/91wranglerslaveassy.png

Check this...Zoom Image LINK HERE.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

sounds like you need to check your fuel pump relay

does it ever come out of that gear while moving and can you get it into higher gears than 3rd

Check the clutch fluid level. If it's low, add some (takes brake fluid). There is a bleed valve down on the clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing. Open the bleed valve and have someone push the clutch pedal slowly to floor, and hold. Close the bleed valve, and repeat until fluid comes out in a steady stream when the pedal is depressed. Your pedal should have pressure now, and the clutch should be working. If no fluid is forced out the clutch master cylinder, into the line, and to the slave cylinder when clutch is pressed, then you may have a bad clutch master cylinder. If fluid does come out the bleed valve, but still no pressure on the pedal, it may be a bad slave cylinder.Post back for more. Would like to know what you find out, and what the problem was, OB. Good luck.

You need to do this with a vacuum bleeder like those made by MITYVAC, they cost about $30 and are available at most better auto parts stores and some retailers like Walmart (not sure on that). The tool comes with full instructions and adapters for most clutch bleeder ports.

About what year, model and engine size.

aftermarket modifications or fabrications to the vehicle is the best place to start looking. if it is all stock than it is time for a bumper to bumper inspection. some people are afraid to work on their own vehicles but later surprised that they could repair a problem just by seeing something that looks out of place. first thing first go to autozone and get your codes read for free.

sounds like you may have crossed the plug wires when putting them on the distributor cap.

The clutch should go to the floor =) But if it's not disengaging the clutch disk, there's definitely a problem between the pedal and the clutch disk. I'm guessing you have a hydraulic clutch?

try removing the negative terminal on your battery for approximately 10 seconds. it works for the check engine light after service, so it just might work for the maint. light as well.

The '91 & newer models turned the maint, req. light on by a timer in the ECU & the ECU turns it on around 120k miles based on a timer and requires a dealer or shop visit to be reset.But it isnt going to hurt anything by being on.

I have seen this issue in some 4x4 vehicles. The issue may be that although you have moved the shift lever, because there is pressure on the axle components, the vehicle has not released the front wheels. After shifting from 4x4 to 2x4, allow the vehicle to move without torque for a few seconds, allowing the components to move into 2x4.

HelloThe porblem under discussion here is not related with my expertise. Please get helped from any other. OK.

check it over 4 vacuim leaks or faulty vac valves

could be aflasher unit or a bad earth