Top 20 1991 Jeep Wrangler - Page 8 Questions & Answers

As the 4 cyl is pretty much a 4.0 6cyl with one end cut off, bolt up should be the same, especially if you are using the transfer case with it.... if it's a stick, it may have a lower first gear, if automatic it may have less clutches in the drums. To verify match-up, check with a local scrapyard..they know interchanges better than anyone...that's their business. Different years may have different electronics.

check your coil, plugs, wires, basically your entire ignition system - test a plug wire by sticking a new (known to spark) sparkplug onto the end of the (known to work) wire and see if there is spark, if not, change out your coil and test again - if neither, check the timing of your distributor

It could be a fuel filter clogged up or it could be a fuel pump going bad. Does the jeep start back up after it stalls? Is there any more symptoms?

Possible water getting in the connection at the tpms sensor. Very common on these vehicles.

Remove distributor cap, ( two screw ) remove rotor, sit under rotor, look's like a black cover, disconnect harness going to distributor, come right out, two hole's on pick up is what hold pick up in place with distributor cap screw's.

on the drivers side of the bellhousing the bleeder valve it located on top of the clutch slave cylinder

Yes there is a PCV valve, you just have to look for it.
Engine may be over full on oil.

have to discharge a/c sys, remove lower instrument panel, remove bolts under hood and inside, undo vac and electrical , labor time about 3 hrs not counting recharge a/c sys

The clutch acting system is hydraulical, (clutch hydraulic system).
Your clutch pedal master cylinder is weak, and needs to be replaced or repaired by gasket kit replacement. Also the clutch slave cylinder can be used, and needs to be repaired (by gasket kit replacement), or replaced. The clutch system must be bled after carrying out work on the hydraulic clutch mechanism.

Replace the 2 part axle with an after market single axle.

Check the ballast resister, should be located close to the coil

replace gasket on mounting block ,that is the only way to stop the leaking

Check your alternator and charging system

see if your engine has a ECT sensor (temp sensor that delivers information to your ECM) they are installed on the intake side of the cylinder head, it usually has 2 cables, have it checked replace if necesary

check your drivetrain, rear differential, or if you are trying in 4x4 check your entire setup - if you have a bigger tire on than recommended then you must change your final gear ration to get up to speed...

There is an idler pulley close to the power steering. Loosen the bolt that goes through the front of the idler pulley first. Then you will see the head of a bolt looking up at you. Turn the bolt clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen. The pulley is attached to the threaded bolt and it moves the pulley up or down as needed to adjust the belt tension. When the belt is replaced turn the bolt until the belt is tight. Remember to check the belt again after a few hundred miles. A new belt will stretch and loosen.

it sounds as if you need to replace the seal stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for yor jeep wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

New Axle grease on the sliding link gear? Change the gear oil in your front differential, and, make sure the vacuum line is the correct I.D. If it is too large (it doesn't take but 1mm or 2mm - 3/16" or 7/32"?) and the vacuum is just a little too weak. also, is the vacuum modulator on the axle NEW? If so, are all connections tight, as short of line as possible, and as few diverters as possible. This is an area where very few things can go wrong because there is nothing to it. Brand New Line and connectors "IF" you have changed ANY at all. any stight kinks or cracks in the line, anywhere, and that's enough to throw off any attempt to "Shift-On-The-Fly", right... Check the easiest, most unsuspecting areas... also, if you don't have 'Locking Hubs' or "Lock-Outs", get a set of WARN lock-outs on the front. They are fairly cheap, but Quality Manufactured. Not a lot of moving parts, easy to maintain (keep 'em well greased with bearing grease, esp. after a weekend of Dirt, Water, Rocks, or any 4X4ing...) and install-remove-reinstall. Do this maint. at least 4x's a yr. No Matter What- and take your time, do not over-tighten, either. tighten the allen-head screws like you do head gaskets or a tire. Trust me, a $75 pair of WARN's will last you for the life of the Jeep. Vacuum issue should be easier than the lock-outs, and they are easy. One more thing about the lock-outs, you have them on there to reduce wear on the front axle, axle u-joints, driveline and transfercase. I wish I had a Scrambler.... Don't you? Dumb question, 'aye?????

Sounds like the trans needs to be rebuilt as it's been abused. The clutch may be dragging during shifts and not completly disingaging or a lasy driver does'nt pust the clutch in all the way. If the clutch isn't the problem the oil in the trans should be ATF and if someone put in 80-90 it'll do this but jumping out of high and the shifter isnt itting the floorboard as a bad trans mount or motor mount may let happen, The trans is damaged and a used unit is cheaper and quicker to get done. Rebuilding the trans with all the parts it may need cost more than your truck is worth

bad washer pump;clogged hoses or nozzles;bad switch