Top 20 1991 Jeep Wrangler - Page 2 Questions & Answers

It sounds very much like the throttle pedal position sensor

Great question. On a 1991 vehicle, that's all what the computer was about-engine management functions, that and some emission requirements. Turns the pump on, runs the injector circuits, and figures spark timing. Only has so many sensors, and so many output controllers. If your spark is good as in a blue, snapping spark, and the injectors are pulsing, and nothing wrong with the pump circuit (check your fuel pressure to verify), then the computer has that much going for it. Even so, a diagnostic flow chart could lead you down a long list of tests or things to check before it arrives at the computer as the possible problem. And when all is said and done, they will often say "Substitute a known good computer and see if problem persists."

Sounds like bad cv axle.

5sp stick auto> what? we are blind till you say. sorry.

the 93 free book should cover it , as will alldata.com http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service turns/haz page , starts this process. as does, tilt steering option> and page 29 (pdf) ignition systems. per engine size)

if it has one at all its in the fuse box. here , ill login to all data.com and see ....you can too.. for sure. my answers are all for USA spec, cars. 2.5L or 4.0L, 4.2L engine.... that is always first. so i look twice. maybe both open car hood see fuse box, this MAIN. see top left corner relay , i think its there. why not post symptoms.? that box is called the power distribution, center next to battery the lid comes of and relay is in there, with all the huge fuses. if you have a volt meter we can find the cause is 5min work in fact, less if we hot wire starter. in 1 seconds work.

Hi Lannie, I'm glad to help. That's a tough one because you can't remove the tumbler if your can't turn it to the proper position. Here's something you can try, it's worked for me many times, but sometimes it doesn't. TAKE, a spray lube and spray it directly where the key goes in. NEXT put the key in like you going to start the car and take a hammer CAUTION: Just tap on the end of the key carefully so you don't break the key, hit it directly on the end of the key. Then try to turn the key, if it turns then you can remove and replace your new one, IF IT DOESN"T, repeat the procedure until it turns. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Lannie!

check the cv joint rubber cover and replace regrease if its busted open..

please say what you are trying to do.???? what does stuck mean.? (rusted to frame ,clamps bad? what?) the lines have fittings and are clamped to the frame. if messing fuel , i recommend getting a REAL FSM and reading that , , and old 91 car will need lots of service and a real FSM will be huge pay back and learned fuel safety. see skeleton here. http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/depressure.html first learn the safety issues. the attack. and live. lots of way to get in trouble,

machine broke maybe.,hehe

the ignition module probly bad-replaces points and located in distributer area--batt must also read 12.6v and alternator must be healthy--fuses may not all be good--take a light tester to um--make sure inline safety fuse on the batt line is workn

If, when you turn on the ignition, you do not see the check engine light come on in the dash then your ecu is in need of repair. The ecu has to energize the relays that send power to the fuel pump and injectors. Until that check engine light comes on, no power will be sent to the relays, thus no start. There are a lot of posts on this site about this, called the delayed start check engine light problem.

Are you sure it is not a vent hose ?

hi see if there is a switch behind the brake peddle,undo one of the connectors,then switch ignition on and see if the brake lights have gone out,if so replace falty switch.good luck hope this was some help,PH.

if it's been running less than a half an hour, it's possible that the lifters haven't filled up to pressure yet; it has to idle a while to stabilize. if it's not that, then look at your ignition timing and your firing order.

if the fuse blew for the fuel gauge, it would keep ALL of your gauges from working, It sounds like your fuel gauge sending unit.

Sounds like the clutch was misaligned during install. That would make it hard or impossible to get into gear.

sounds like you need to check your fuel pump relay

Check this...Zoom Image LINK HERE.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Check the clutch fluid level. If it's low, add some (takes brake fluid). There is a bleed valve down on the clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing. Open the bleed valve and have someone push the clutch pedal slowly to floor, and hold. Close the bleed valve, and repeat until fluid comes out in a steady stream when the pedal is depressed. Your pedal should have pressure now, and the clutch should be working. If no fluid is forced out the clutch master cylinder, into the line, and to the slave cylinder when clutch is pressed, then you may have a bad clutch master cylinder. If fluid does come out the bleed valve, but still no pressure on the pedal, it may be a bad slave cylinder.Post back for more. Would like to know what you find out, and what the problem was, OB. Good luck.