20 Most Recent 2006 Audi 5000 Questions & Answers

sounds like a fuel pump or a fuel filter try the fuel filter first

change ur fuel pump ,

Audi 100 Wikipedia

Oil in Water , and Car difficult to start , or may not start , & loss of power , and smoke out of rear exhaust .

petrol or diesel if petrol check plugs coil packs and leeds if diesel cloged injectors water in tank (change filter ) sticking valves timeing wrong head gasket could be a number of things but get the first couple checked first hope this helps ivan

This is on a 1987 audi 5000s. The light that comes on is an engine with a lightning bolt through it. When this comes on the car loses power, have to turn off and restart. That will work for a short distance and the light back on again. I just got the car about a month ago for my 16 yr. son's first car. If there is anything you can do I appreciate it. Thank you. Open the driver's door of the PT Cruiser and kneel down to locate the 16-point data link connector (DLC) under the dash. It sits up under the dash to the left of the brake pedal on earlier model Cruisers. Later models moved the connector slightly to the right, closer to the steering wheel column, but still under the dash.

2 Plug the pocket scanner plug into the DLC. Because of its unique shape, there is only one way to plug any connectors onto the DLC, making it foolproof.

3 Place the key into the ignition and turn it two clicks forward to the "II" position. This position provides accessory power and illuminates the instrument cluster without the engine running. It also provides accessory power to the pocket scanner.

4 Read the onscreen menu of the pocket scanner. The scanners are easy to use, but if necessary, read the manual provided with the scanner to navigate through the menu. Many modern pocket scanners are equipped with "Erase" buttons -- in that case, press erase to reset the code. Other models may have "Enter" or "Scroll" button(s) to navigate through a few different options (one of the options being the erase codes option).

5 Erase the code(s) with the scanner and start the engine of the Cruiser. Determine if the service light is out. If not, repeat the procedure. If the light is still on, it means there is a "hard code" that must be read (with the scanner under "Read Codes" option) and properly repaired.

TELL ME ARE YOUR ENGINE TURBO.

Sounds like you need to replace the valve cover gaskets.

1986?? did it have one then i whought they still had points at that age ,if it does have one it will be the bosch type and it will be under the coil

check fuse ,relay and wire if ok remove starter and service it

Should be in either of these 3 places:

1. Open the driver side door. Remove panel on left side of dash.

2. Under hood toward back on Drivers side

3. on the right hand side of the dash board , you have to open the RHS door and where the door panel is shaped to meet the dash board their is a plastic cover on the dash board, it is a smooth flat plastic plate, just get your fingers under it and pull it off.

Hope this helps :)

Please Rate

Hi there, it's a bit fiddly to say the least. To begin with, access is a REAL problem as it is located on top of the bell housing which is right at the back of the engine bay under the bulkhead (firewall). If your car has abs there are several brake lines which further restrict access. The unit is held in place with a roll pin which has to be driven out with a hammer and the correct sized drift. This involves lying across the engine and reaching through the brake lines, down under the bulkhead with both hands to get the roll pin out-there's virtually no room to swing the hammer. If you're really lucky your slave cylinder could be held in with a singe bolt- much easier to get at. Once the pin or bolt has been removed, the fun really starts. The cylinder will almost certainly be very well seized in so use lots of penetrating/release oil around it and try to rotate it in its housing to allow it to be worked free. Don't be tempted (like I was) to try knocking it out with the drift and hammer as the cylinder is likely to break which will necessitate removal of the gearbox to get it out. This is the strategy (gearbox removal) adopted by Audi workshops as they are aware of the access problem. If the car is a Quattro variant (as mine is), this is a very involved procedure requiring removal of exhaust system, propshaft, driveshafts, gear change linkage, associated wiring (very innaccessible) and finally the (incredibly heavy) gearbox. (As I did). Once you get it all back together again, the bleeding of the hydraulic line to remove air can also be problematic (as mine still is).
So there you have it, you could be lucky and the slave cylinder might just pop right out and I hope it does. It's worth using copper grease around the cylinder before you instal it as this will greatly ease subsequent removal, should the need arise. It is even more worthwhile to check that it is actually the slave cylinder which is the problem and not the master cylinder (as mine was!) as this is an infinitely although still "trying" job to carry out.
Good luck, don't hesitate to get back to me with any further questions, cheers,Bob.