20 Most Recent 1999 Mercury Villager Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. The bolt is in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Mercury+Villager+harmonic+balancer+bolt+size ..

27 mm ...right handed(normal thread) which should torque to 160 ft/lbs

you have air trapped in the heater cores, front and back. You need to burp system or take to a shop and have them flush cooling system and use their vacuum system to purge the air. Should cost $60. Make sure they have vacuum system.

Or go to our site and read file on how to burp air from cooling system.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

cam sensor is in distributor, not serviceable. 1999 is noted for failing cam sensors. Usually runs good cold, then gets worse after warm till it fails all together.
Buy Rich Porter reman on ebay for $200 to get a good one.

join our group

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

you can try the brake light switch.. it is located under dash ..follow the brake pedal up you will see a switch ... unplug wires and use a paper clip or piece of wire to to jump... if brake light comes on replace switch.....

distributor.

I's a bad distributor. Get a Spectrum NGS 60. The cam sensor is going bad. A lot of 99-00 models have this issue.

Chris, it would take pages of answers here. Please go to a car parts store or a public library and buy or check out a book to go through the steps. The may be as many as 50 for R. & R. When you have completed the task, you will see why garages get so much money to do this! God bless your efforts.

Read the following and follow the instructions for this problem.

Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

remove the trim panel below the glove box and you will see the blower motor,just to the left of it you will see a 4 wire connector plugged into the case. This is the blower motor resistor,this is what you need to replace.

Are you sure that the emergency flasher button is not turned on Usually has a triangle on it.

that is the code for the fuel temp sensor. The sensor is located on the fuel pump and it is available seperately. You have to remove the fuel pump to get to it.

Fuse relay?I don't understand.Is there power to the fuel pump relay or not?If so, then replace the relay and retry.

Get wheels balanced then front end aligned

usually it is a vacuum leak which is letting more air into the engine. With engine running, use a spray water bottle and mist around all vacuum lines, the power brake booster and engine seams. Then try any vacuum line to the transmission. Could also be a burst vacuum shift diaphram if so equipped.

Do any lights work? IS the battery fully charged or does it need a boost

Could be collapsed rubber brake hose on drivers front brake. Inside of hose has collapsed like a flap gate and brake fluid can not return to master.