20 Most Recent 1997 Mercury Villager - Page 3 Questions & Answers

read operators guide. most cars, there are 2 ways see level in plastic tank (side look) or dip stick. check levelr? or check condition of the Fluid?

See if this sounds familiar: Just driving down the road and all of the sudden it just started losing power and you step on the gas and nothing happened? It dies, had to pull to the side of the road, it cranks over but won't start?
Answer 1) This is indicative of a failed/broken timing belt! If you continually try starting after this condition occurs then you could potentially ruin an engine! If it won't crank at all, chances are that the battery is completely drained from trying to crank it,
Answer 2) If the battery is still charged then the broken timing belt may have wrapped itself around your crank gear and now has the belt "wedged" between the crank gear and the housing not allowing it to spin.
Answer 3) Most costly and unfortunate, you could've ruined the engine by cranking it over without a timing belt. If you heard "banging, knocking, pinging" sounds while turning the engine over after this happened then the engine is ruined and will need replaced as the repair would be more costly than the vehicle is worth. If you didn't hear any of these sounds then likely your answer will be # 2!
Hope this helps, HAVE A SAFE AND PRODUCTIVE DAY!!

if the starter is not working the engine wont turn over or very slow then stop ,if the engine turns over fine but not firing i'd check the OBD codes to give the exact fault will be a sensor(s) but there are a few so get the OBD done

Oki !! By lights, you mean warning lights on the dash? Then yes, it could be the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal, if a manual. But if automatic, see below: Find the inhibit relay under the hood in the fuse/relay box: hold your finger lightly on it, and have someone turn the key to start. If you don't feel the relay click, suspect the neural safety switch in the Transmission range sensor on the transmission. Have you checked all fuses? There should/could be a fuse or two in the start circuit. Free wiring diagrams and Technical Service Bulletins for nearly all cars can be found here: http://www.bbbind.com/technical.html .Click on TSB's and wir. diagm's, agree to end user license agreement, then enter vehicle information (year, make, model, & engine), pick engine wir. diag.'s under system, and start circuit as sub-system. It's easy, you will see what I mean. If you have an anti-theft system, and it is triggered, it will disable the starting system. (Are you in Browning, or Canada? I live in Heart Butte.)

Not exactly sure why you want to syphon gas out of the tank but on most cars now a days you can not simply stick a hose in the gas tank.The angle of the fill hose and the spring loaded flap make it virtually impossible.What you will have to do is pop the hood and unhook the fuel line.Then you will need to find the fuel pump relay under the hood as well.Then remove the relay and jump the two largest female connectors together.The last step is turn the key to the run position NOT START POSITION and the gas will pump out of the fuel line

Start with changing your spark plugs, spark plug wires, and air filter. Also run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through your fuel system. This should help with your excessive fuel consumption.

Look for a round fitting sticking out, right about where the end of the hose should reach.

No reverse gear but forwards work ok is the most common sign of a failed transmission.

There is a part called an Inertia switch. It can be behind the front kick panels or in the rear cargo area if you have Air-ride. It has a reset button on it. It is the usual culprit for mystery no-starts. The timing chain is hidden inside the engine. The exposed Serpetine belt is just a glorified fan belt and has no role in timing. If you can peek inside a valve cover and have someone crank the engine, you may be able to see rocker arms moving. Removing a sparkplug may allow you to observe a compression stroke, indicating that pistons and valves are still moving.

The IAT is part of the MAF Sensor (Mass Air Flow) which is located on the Air Intake Tube between the Air Filter and the Air Intake/Throttle Body

Do you mean an IAC = Idle Air Control? It is located on the Drivers Side of the Throttle Body IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) Sensor? It is part of the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor on the Fords normally.

There's an air charge temp sensor in the side of the air cleaner.

Transmission is going to need work internally

Gas line freezing? Put a couple of bottles of red Heat in the gas tank.

Apparently you have saved a lot of money the past year or so by not staying on top of maintenance and repairs. I believe you are headed there now, though. First you will need proper diagnosing and it isn't cheap. Search around for a good independent. Your other choice? the Famous Ford Motel- where cars check in, (and owners lose limbs).

take that stinking van back and replace it with a ride you like and tell them what it was doing because that is crazy