20 Most Recent 2002 Honda Odyssey - Page 6 Questions & Answers

loose mounts,? frayed belt? noise sounds like what, (scream or rattle) clutch engaged or now , look and see? or turn it off. and make sure it is off the clutch free spins, OFF. if off, and noise still, get a new clutch bearing. if only noise, with clutch engaged that is pump noise ever heard of a $5 stethoscope at harbor fright.? get one listen to it. if only the compressor makes noise its bad, end of life. sure it makes noise , new. listen 1 one other car, to learn good from bad, takes what 5min?

Sounds like belt tensioner pulley or idler pulley assembly.

Check the ignition key switch located at the back of the key lock mechanism. The electrical contacts in the switch may already be worn out.

wild guess? not. so my answer is DIY. first tighten all accessory belts to factory spec. or replace them if old. i bet yours are? if not belts (you can drop belst off a cold engine to find which is bad) a 2min test, if you drop water pump belt. use a rubber hose to ear and listen for it, find the location of noise. then use a $5 stethoscope. and find it. first tighten all accessory belts to factory spec.

cars to cost money, and is endless..... ins. and repairs and fuel. but only a hands on guy can tell this. no web bunny. but here. 1: low tire pressure, my POS suzuki makes noise any time tires low. 2: air in the system, (there are FSM instructions on how to fix that) 3: bad P/s pump or other other power steering parts. or leaks in these parts, even air leaks. changing the pump and not getting the air out is a 100% failure. RTM on my jeep they sell a special cap for the P/S pump. and has a test vacuum nipple on top, i attached my hand vacuum pump and pump it to 28 HG inches in 5min , all air is gone like magic, (saves huge labor) or as the FSM states. (from first ever made) 1: put car up on stands , up front. 2: start the engine. 3: cycle steering wheel min to max,CW and CCW like a mad man. this act purges air. if the air comes back, the system is breached somehow. not all problems are corrected by swapping pumps. not at all.

It sounds like you need to use a cleaner to flush out the system...You can buy a spray can that you feed into the air ducts...

Try to disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes this should reset the computer for you.

check fluid level, if good it maybe electrical problem..check with dealer for recalls

remove and put in a new one? please be clear.or did it fall off?is it old or new. or broken.we are blind here...

huhlight flame continues

newer honda's have dash cluster computer. "CAN BUS" type.so list which one,s.. Oil, CEL, charge,,? name a few. or all.also there are parking lamps, are they stuck on too?some newer I/P clusters have test mode, did you read theglove box operator guide, ? it tells of all that.... if true.did the engine stall, this is normal for all stalls.

easy is in the eye of the beholder and skill sets.you could read the manual (FSM) and assess that for your self.so you are saying the engine coolant thermostat is good and is at180F or more all the time , hot, holding.and that this hot coolant fails to reach the heater core?right? it can only be 2 things, 1: that valve some cars have.2: or path is clogged.3: some cars have a damper that blocks the core , so if that is stuck then bingo.may be? why guess. do the tests to find the facts.or guess and guess wrong. $$$$if you really want the facts, go to alldata.com $15 year DIY subs.and read the HVAC section, or get the Full FSM from Honda or Helm.? or anywhere.in the book they tell you how to conduct these simple tests.here is the heater valve test.there are 2 water hoses from engine to cab, on right hand sideof RHD car. (usa)a top hoseand bottom hose. the bottom hose has a valve there.the test:engine hot. 180F +heater on max. fan max too.both sides of vavle, that is both sides of valve hosesjust be real hot, so hot hand jumps back after 5sec touch.this is NORMAL.if not hot both sides, the coolant is NOT flowing.if not flowing , make sure valve is opening on demand.if it is , this path is filthy and is packed up. (forgot the 2year flush and fill?s)the valve is cable operatedhave person one adjust dash temp lever from min to maxthen person two ,look at the water valve , does that lever, movefrom min to max.>?the cable must be adjusted, if (messed with prev.)dash temp to 60F.take out all slick at cable, at valve, using. cable clamp next to valve.keep in mind , if the heater core,is cold.the valve is bad, stuck or cloggedor the core is packed in crudor the hoses associated to all this are packed.i can tell you guessing will be expensive.

On 2002 Honda Truck Odyssey 3.5L MFI SOHC VTEC 6cyl the OBD Diagnostic Link Connector is located under the instrument panel in the driver's side. It is bolted to the kick panel and is gray in color on the 1998 and newer models.Also refer to Haynes manual in the emissions and engine control system section .Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

its the same on all cars. (few exemptions)1;remove battery NEGATIVE lug.2: remove objects blocking access to starter (evap cansistor, or things like shields, or hoses or ,?? just look it ,see the parts in the way>?3: remove wires to starter solenoid.4: unbolt starter, it fall off to hands.only step 2 varies by car type.if you want the exact way, alldata.com has it. login and look.step by step.