20 Most Recent 2002 Honda Civic - Page 4 Questions & Answers

code radio honda civic 2008 serial 26158876 please

Either your mass airflow sensor or the fuel pump. If your car restarts right away that rules out the fuel pump as that would need time to cool off to run again. You may just have a dirty sensor. They sell mass airflow cleaner at the auto parts store. Easy to get out and clean. Just google it.

spray some ws40 or similar into the key slot to lube tumblers work key back and forth slowly should free up tumblers

That is not a question that can be answered

Some people drive Hondas and Toyotas 120,000 miles
only changing the oil 3 times,then wonder why it has been
such a good vehicle until it quits. That is a true event,really

All vehicles vary or in your life time could average out about the same
monthly.
Too many variables. Most people do absolutely no preventative
maintenance. They wait until a problem comes up, then continue
on. Read the questions on this site. 90% have no idea what to do
about anything, on a motor vehicle or where to go to have it checked out.

I believe if you are not having your vehicle looked at 3 times a year and
spending $1000 per year/$83 per mo,your neglecting what it needs

Easy to say when you have been working on your own vehicles for 47 years.

You said maintenance,not fuel, insurance,etc.

If you cleaned it really well, then the car may have to compensate for the drastic change. Check all vacuum lines connected, if you opened the engine coolant system for anything you may need to burp the system to get any air out. As a last resort, you could try and disconnect the battery for a little while to reset the ecu. It will then have to re-learn the systems. I cleaned a little soot from around the butterfly in the throttle of my wife's Pathfinder, and it took a while for the system to settle and re-learn the new airflow. Sometimes it doesn't take much. If you disconnect the battery to clear the ecu, when you start the car, let it idle with everything off. No A/C, no lights, no heat, etc.

It needs to be programmed with diagnostic computer.

Please check: - Fuel pump pressure. (38-44 psi) - Check fuel regulator. - Fuel filter. - Sedimentation filter in the fuel tank. - Fuel injectors. - Water contamination in the fuel tank. - PCV valve for open or clogged. - Vacuum leaks in the intake manifold or vacuum pipes. - Ignition system. - Brakes for partial engaged. - Reset ECM. If problem persists, pull up the live data with scan tool and interpret the results.

Please check the following: - Pull up error codes, if any. -. Check fuel pump pressure (38-44 psi). - Check fuel filter for clogged. -. Check fuel for water contamination. -. Regulating valve. -. Engine cooling system. - Check valves clearance. - Check valve timing. -. Check to see if the brakes are partially engaged during normal drive. Thank you for visiting Fixya.

I would try changing your map sensor. That controls your fuel/air mixture. Should be located on top of your engine intake manifold.

Doubt you will find that spec,easily anyway How about doing a Cylinder Leak Down Test Then you actually have a test that tells you something Compression is relative to many conditions & not the best test to do,initially, anyway If the cylinders valves seal ,your done You need 110 lbs or more across all cyl,with no more than 10% difference Don't forget the timing belt issues, you may have Don't forget the old worn out & clogged exhaust converter Don't forget the cam shaft oil passages that may be blocked or cam actuators that fail

ok -
Have you checked your fuel source: How old is the fuel in it now - is there a chance of water being in there? How about your Fuel pump/pressure? - Fuel filter? How about the gas cap - is it vented or creating a vacume?

Alternatively how long does it stay running - till it heats up? only a couple of minutes??

There could be many things wrong but you will need to find out what trouble codes are set on it as any starting point.

Starter Advice would be, Make sure the vehicle is cold (hasn't been running recently) Take pictures of the mounting brackets & hoses before hand for reference. Then detach hoses & then mounting brackets & replace. Good Luck,

make sure the battery has a good clean tight connection. Make sure the coil has juice running through it to the distributor. Take the cap off and look at the rotor and make sure its in good shape and the contacts inside the cap are clean and in good shape. Make sure the coil wire to the center of the cap is not broken. If all this is checking out ok then your distributor or igniter has a broken circuit inside. I would try another used one from the auto recyclers as a new one from the dealer can be worth more then the car is worth. Try these things .It about trial and elimination when its electrcal issues

have a load test done on the battery for a dead cell as that is the indication from the clicks ensure battery terminals and posts are shiny clean and tight