20 Most Recent 1996 Honda Civic - Page 4 Questions & Answers

This may help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZPKYXVUl2M

Check your idle air control valve.

If by "off" you mean that you suspect that the camshaft is out of time with the crankshaft by one tooth the answer is probably no. Most engines won't even run with camshaft timing off by a tooth. Or they will run with extremely rough idle and very low power. And the ignition timing will be almost impossible to adjust. If by "off" you mean the timing belt is not on the engine, the answer is no. Engine won't start without a timing belt. But you do run a near 100% chance of causing severe engine damage if you attempt to crank the engine without a timing belt. If by "pulsing in the revs" you mean that the engine seems to be running fairly smoothly but it will rev at normal idle then occassionally rev higher for a second or two, I would suspect your Throttle Position Sensor. This tells the engine what the throttle is doing. If the sensor is erratic the engine's computer will improperly think that the throttle has been depressed. A TPS is not terribly expensive and is very easy to remove and install.

Underneath the car, almost in the center in the front of the engine. May be tucked in behind some stuff but will have wires running to it.

Post a picture and I can help.

replace TPI, throttle position indicator, or mass air flow sensor

Last one of these i did with this problem i found that it was ihe IGN Module inside the distributer.. When i saw the price of this module.. I looked for a used distributer.. Bought one on Ebay for $40. complete with cap and roter and modules.. Fixed the problem. Could be a coil or electricty not comning from Ign switch.. You will have to check all these things before spending the big money.. I think that Orilly Auto parts can check the module if you bring it to them.

Hi Meadors,

The clicking sound you heard most likely the starter solenoid engaging the starter. Only in this case it's failing to engage the starter. This is a classic symptom of a low battery. Here's why.

In a perfect world, when you turn the key to start:

1. the solenoid is fed 12VDC which engages an electromagnetic coil inside it.
2. A spring loaded steel piston inside this coil reacts to the magnetic field. It is pulled against the spring. By itself this sounds like a loud decisive CLICK.
   
3. The movement of the piston simultaneously pushes the starter gear into the flywheel and sends power to the starter via heavy duty contacts. The starter draws a lot of power.
4. The starter spins, turns the engine, the engine starts, life is good.
5. When the key is released, the solenoid disengages, the spring pushes the piston back, the starter gear disengages from the flywheel.
   

In our world, when you turn the key to start:

1. The solenoid which draws it's share of power engages as before. Click.
   
2. As the starter tries to spin, the power available is insufficient. It draws all remaining power, there isn't enough left to keep the solenoid active and it turns off.
3. Since the starter isn't drawing power anymore, the solenoid re-engages and the cycle starts over. Click.
4. The cycle repeats. Click. A series of rapid clicks. Same page?
   

While a dead battery is the prime suspect, there can be other causes. Things to do:

• Check belts, specifically on the alternator.
• Terminal connections clean and tight.
• In the 'Let's not over look the obvious' department: Battery voltage?
• Get a jump. Try a jump start.
• If a jump gets you going, it is either the battery not holding a charge or the alternator not providing one.
  

Even new batteries can be bad off the shelf. Especially if they have been on that shelf for a while. They may show the voltage but not the amps. This is called a 'Surface Charge'.

If you don't have a voltmeter, what you need to do now is visit an auto parts store (not a shop). Most (in the hope of making a sale) will provide free testing of batteries and charging systems.

What you need is called a "Load Test" on the battery. It simulates the load of an engine being started. This will confirm the battery is good or bad.

Then with the car running, they need to check the voltage to the battery (they will know this). If it's not above +13VDC, the alternator is bad or not connected correctly.

And if it doesn't start, what better place to be?

Let me know what they and you find out by commenting.
Best regards
Mike

check under dash their should be a cable or air lines

could be the bearing or worn shoes/pads have it stripped out ,only way to find problem

Knocking is produced due to the following reasons: - Contaminated fuel. - Restricted or purged fuel line. - Fuel pump pressure too high. - Clogged Fuel Injectors. - Ignition timing too early. - Wrong heat range and air gaps of the spark plugs. - Excessive carbon accumulation in the combustion chamber. - Knock sensor. - Brake system.

Error Code: P0301 Description: Cylinder 1 - Misfire Detected Possible Cause: Wiring. Ignition system. Fuel injectors. Fuel pressure. Running out of fuel. EVAP canister purge valve. Evaporative emission system. Low compression. Base engine problems. Engine control module (ECM). Error Code: P0302 Description: Cylinder 2 - Misfire Detected Possible Cause: Wiring. Ignition system. Fuel injectors. Fuel pressure. Running out of fuel. EVAP canister purge valve. Evaporative emission system. Low compression. Base engine problems. Engine control module (ECM). Error Code: P1300 Description: Random Misfire Possible Cause: As above.

If you small gas on the spark plug, it's running rich. I would think your issue will be in your ignition. I would check the gap on the spark plug then check to see if it's getting a good spark. Then check your spark plug wires for cracks or corrosion on the terminals, and you can also use a DMM to check the resistance across the plug wire. Resistance should not exceed 0.3 oms. If that looks good then check your coil.

Not familiar with Honda Civics but I have never seen a relay or any other electrical component hooked to a fuel filter. The one for the fuel pump should be in the fuse panel normally under the hood. Usually identified on the cover or owners manual

Civics are known to fail in two areas the main relay or ignitor. 1-First turn your Switch to ONII and check if your check engine light come on for two seconds and turn off, at the same time you need to hear the fuel pump priming. If you not hear the fuel pump the main relay is the culprit, if the CEL stay on retrieve the codes and start from there. The OEM MR is $60-65, eBay have the knock off for around $25.00 2- If the first part test fine, buy a spark tester or put a plug in the wire one. Have a friend crank the car and look for spark. If spark not present you have a bad ignitor. This ignitor is a little pricy OEM, The eBay units run for $25.00 but this are knock offs. Hope this help Carlos

might be as simple as a blown dash bulb