20 Most Recent 1994 Honda Civic - Page 2 Questions & Answers

didnt solve your problem after replacing alternator?

check the switch connected to your shifter if car is automatic and see if it is stuck or broken.

There is a switch on the gearshift that is made when you shift it in reverse. The switch is likely bad and stuck.

be specific. year make model engine milage. whats the code.

run the fault codes engine light fault can also refer to transmission fault which is indicated by the speedo problem

Check for any short circuit in cruise control, light control and switch. The positive wire is shorted to ground.

I don't have a fuse diagram, but you may want to try pulling the connector off the stoplight switch above the brake pedal. If that doesn't turn the lights off, your relay is shorted and must be replaced. If the lights go out, check the switch to see if the button is springing out or just replace it. Cost is $20 or less at autozone.

Check inside the distributor for loose wire connections, and signal from igniter.

It seems your ignition switch has burned out - verifying good starter operation was an important component in furthering your diagnosis effort. The ignition switch is really a relay separate from the ignition key cylinder - when it fails to send battery voltage to the starter motor, you'll have the no-start condition described.See the Honda Ignition switch replacement illustration below.Just for completeness' sake, here's the generic response of a mechanic to a vehicle's no-start condition:Priority Action Part Type Cause1 Inspect Ignition Switch - Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.2 Inspect Battery - Battery Discharged or Faulty.3 Inspect Battery Cable - Coroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.4 Inspect Solenoid - Starter Solenoid Faulty.5 Inspect Starter - Starter Motor Faulty.6 Inspect Wireset - Worn or Damaged Spark Plug Wires.7 Inspect Ignition Coil - Faulty Ignition Coil.8 Inspect Distributor Cap - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap.9 Inspect Spark Plug - Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).10 Inspect Distributor Rotor - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Rotor.11 Inspect Fuel Tank - Fuel Tank Empty.12 Inspect Carburetor - Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor.13 Inspect Fuel Pump - Faulty Fuel Pump.14 Inspect Choke - Stuck or Improperly Functioning Choke.15 Inspect Fuel Filter - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.16 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay - Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.17 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator - Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.18 Inspect Fuel Pump - Low Fuel Pressure.19 Inspect Engine Control Computer - Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.20 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer.Illustration courtesy honda-tech.com (from 1994 Honda Civic EX manual).http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2577784

ignition module inside the cap and rotor assembly

This should do:

Try this video:

U need a new battery, clicking is usually the starter.

i have a 1992 honda civic hatchback with an 1995 single head vtec motor. the problem with my car is when i go and try to start the car it wont start up right away. instead it makes a clicking noise everytime i step on the clutch and turn the key. my honda is a 5 speed... sometimes it starts up right away but also sometimes it just seems like after 10 to 15 clicks the car still havent started yet. all the lights and everything else comes on fine from what i can see... what else can be the problem or anything that i can do very soon without spending any or alot of money yet???

sounds like a solinoid problem

1st check battery terminals to be making connections,next,make sure battery fully charged,then move to fuse box under the hood for burnt battery fuse, then check battery charge,if good,then suspect bad connection to starter (wires) then suspect bad starter. if not that,then try to turn engine over manually by crankshaft bolt to see if cranks locked. thank you for choosing fixya.com

Normally when the brake pedal goes almos to the floor it is an indication of low brake fluid. Low brake fluid is an indication that front and/or rear brakes are wearing. As the brake pads wear down more brake fluid will be required in the wheel cylinders or calipers. Hint, the front brakes usually wear much faster than the rear due to the fact that the fronts due a much greater braking function that the rear. Check the front pads. Don't let them get down to the metal scraping metal stage before you change them out. This causes unnessary damage to the rotors. Look at your master cylinder on the firewall under the hood in front of the steering wheel. If the fluid level is belowhte "max" mark add fluid. Low fliud should also show as a red "brake" light on your dash, but not always.

seems that the igniton key lock is the issue. you might have burned the contacts in the ignition switch or the wires that go to it. till you take the cover off the steering column and inspect what is going on with the igniton. there is no way to tell what was damaged. I use car-part.com to find used parts. you might be able to find a whole steering column which would be a lot easier to replace if you find a lot of stuff is damaged. if you have melted wires that are touching each other you might have blown a couple fuses also. so if you find blown fuses don't just start replacing them. they blew for a reason so inspect for damage first so your car does not start on fire worst case that could happen. if you replace the fuse your just going to keep blowing the fuses if you have a short in the wires.

Hi,there are few things that you can get at some auto parts to put inside the rear springs , you can cut the iner lips on the quarterpanels ,but this should be done by a pro,(hope this help)

Isolate the brake booster by pinching the vacuum line connected to the booster and try braking. If this works your brake booster is bad.