1993 Honda Prelude - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Should be behind the glove compartment

This sounds like limp mode which is your car trying to protect itself from damage. Do you have a check engine light? Go to a local autoparts store and have them pull the codes. Solve the codes and try again. Do yourself a favor and dont just buy parts and hope the problem goes away. This is expensive and wont always produce results. If im not wrong the h23a is the vtec model. If so there are differences between the other engine. If you have idle issues it could be the idle air controll, a vacuum leak, an air metering or fuel metering issue.

Blue some is burning oil. Check your PCV valve 1st, but if this is bad, your idle would be high. If it smokes when 1st starting only, the valve guides and/or seals are bad. If it smokes while driving, the rings are worn out.

Code 1 is pump failure. You can try to "exercise" the pump by engaging the ABS. Do this on an empty road or parking lot. Also changing the fluid in the pump. These might prolong the life of the pump, but most likely it will need to be replaced.

Disconnect cable from shifter to see if shifter work ok

check the drive belt condition and tension

You should first cool the radiator with the water and then ask the professionals because i don't have the visual of your car. I suggest you to ask professionals. And yes one more thing if you ever have a roof leaks issue in it then go the EPDM Coatings and ask them the solution they guys are great in solving problem. Thanks Liquid Roof AND RV Roof Coatings

post year. if tranny slips its bad tranny. (depends on year) if the engine misfire and has weak power that is not a tranny issues but a engine issue., have some how knows cars tell you which is which. if you mash the throttle and the dash RPM goes way over 3000 RPM that is in fact a bad tranny in any gear Forward or reverse. shaking is the engine, i guess. do you check fluid levels on your car. and use the operators guide for the A/T tranny levels, dont guess. use the book it has tricky steps. read it. good luck to you.

the alternator is a fuse /fusible link check to see if that is ok or anything also your heat sencor is probbaley on its way out

spanish? post in english, scan PCM/ECU and post the errors. and all bad symptoms. if smart, post the good, the bad and the ugly.

stalls. ( ever tune it up,at the 60k service points? ) what year, no year , no joy, 1978 to 2001 , lots huh? and what engine option, displacement (size) over 10 engines Third-generation Honda Prelude engines: B20A/B20A1 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 143/160 hp (Japan/Europe) B20A3 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb 104 hp North America B20A4 - 2.0L SOHC 12v carb Global, except North America B20A5 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 135 hp (101 kW) North America B20A6 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 142 hp (106 kW) Oceania B20A7 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 150 hp (110 kW) Europe B20A8 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 133 hp (99 kW) Europe B20A9 - 2.0L DOHC PGM-FI 140 hp (100 kW) Europe B21A - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 145 hp (108 kW) Japan (SI States) B21A1 - 2.1L DOHC PGM-FI 140 hp (100 kW) North America

audio? see FSM. but in dash? the front speakers have wires, follow them to amp.

cant how? closes when you want it to stay up ask a real question. ex. "my hood closes under a stiff wind" why?

what year? what engine option?RAD cap.?recover tank capor the thermostat housing (sold at HONDA)no year, no joy.

Bad radiator cap

Best to fix it right buy a new fuel line .An inline filter couldnt handle the pressure cause with fuel injection you have alot more fuel pressure and using clamps you are risking your life with a good chance of a fire

are you asking the question....where is my hondas alt.located?

What is the year? Any lights come on ?

Make sure you block the front wheels and leave the car in gear before attempting to lift it. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Check for a binding parking brake cable for whichever tire is locked up. Remove the wheel that is locked up. If it's got drum brakes, remove the small rubber plug on the inside of the drum and use two flat screwdrivers to loosen the brake adjuster until you can get the drum off. Check the pads and the drum for excessive wear. Check the wheel cylinder for leaks and replace it if necessary. Check all the springs as well. If any of the springs are damaged, replace all of them (spring kits are only a few dollars). If it has disc brakes, check the pads and rotor for excessive wear. Remove the brake caliper and try to compress it (you will probably need a special tool for this, also only a few dollars at any parts store). If it is frozen, you need to replace the caliper. NOTE: if you replace any wheel cylinder or caliper, you will need to bleed the brake system before attempting to drive! Also, what is done to one side of your brakes should be done to the other at the same time. After all, those parts have most likely been on the car for the same amount of time, and it's imperative to keep the braking force even on both sides for safety's sake. Hope this helps.

Make sure your positive and negative hook ups from both cables to the battery are completely clean, has no corrosion on them, and that they are tight. It sounds like the cables have corrosion on them