1993 Honda Prelude - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Well, you need to find out what is shorting. You can turn the car off and using a Volt/ohm meter on the amp setting, remove each fuse one at a time. The power across a fuse with the vehicle static should be in the milliamp range. How does he know it is drawing 9 amps? You pull each fuse and check in and reinstall and move on to the next one until you find the short.
Some times the alternator has internal shorts. It's pretty easy to remove it and take it to AutoZone for a free test. Just remember to remove the battery cable when removing it.

hi there i am willing to bet that the pipe is for the defroster or the air vent on the drivers side. you have to look up under the dash and try and see if you can locate the air vents this can be a pain in the you know were. all you got to do to locate were it came from is turn on your heat or ac and feel under the dash and you will feel the air flow and then you know atleast were the end goes now the hard part might be getting this back up there and on
hope this helps
Please leave me a rating
Thank you

CHECK THE SPEED CABLE

Had same problem. Turned out that antifreeze was low causing insufficient water pressure. Could also be a bad sensor. I would check both.

If it doesn't unscrew then call the dealer --- ask for service and ask them .. KC

if it clicks when you try to start it might be the battery.
Turn on the lights and try to start.. and see if they dim out,
if so replace or charge the battery KC

my car did the same thing the problem was a $14 washer inside the oil filter fitting on the car you have to pull the filter conection off (from the car) bit of an *** around but pretty simple.

No thats just the oxygen sensor warning light there could be some oil on the terminal or the sensor is stuffed.

your 4ws sensor prob needs to be reset take it to a qualified mech.

Smoking out the tailpipe is usually caused by worn rings, or really worn valve guide seals. (if it is an oil smoke) If it is a black smoke, it is running too rich, maybe an injector leaking or stuck open.

Transmission shift cable needs adjusted

try checking the timing...take the valve cover off...remove the rubber cover for your inspection window on the flywheel... line up the white line on your flywheel with the pointer...once your lined up at tdc with the flywheel check your cam sprockets and make sure they are in the right alignment...also take your cap off and look at where your rotor is pointing..making sure it is pointing at #1 cylinder

check your fliuds

Is your battery is in good condition also check your alternator load is correct....

check for a blown ignition fuse in the fusebox. more info would help....Do the dash lights come on in the KEY-ON position?
Will it crank over? while its cranking is the engine light on?

Exhaust pipe rubber hanger, or muffler

Sounds like you accidently pulled the thin wire from you starter motor. Look at the connections at the end of the solenoid, mounted on starter motor.The thick red wire is Battery + next to that connection is a smaller male push- on terminal, locate loose wire (thin) in the same area and reconnect to male push-on terminal on solenoid or check if earth cable between body/battery to engine wasnt removed in the process.Also some vehicles you have to engage the clutch before starting, check for a switch located on clutch pedal where master cylinder connects to clutch pedal (Is clutch switch mounted and wiring connected?)

if its not getting fire it could be your crankshaft sensor being bad

Have a look at this link & scroll down for pictures of where sensors are supposed to be, and read up a bit on them so you sort of know what goes on there. Basically the sensors, sense a little notch or tooth on back of hub or whatever, and that tells it that the wheel is still turning. When it senses the wheel not turning, or slowing down too fast, it sends that signal to the ABS system to go into action & not allow brakes to lock up, thus you feel pulsating in brake pedal, that's the brakes being applied & released very quickly, as needed to avoid lock up of one or more wheels & loss of control of vehicle.(helps you stop straight in a panic situation, or allows you to steer around a corner better without spinning out.) If the path between those 2 spots (face of sensor & notches or teeth) becomes covered in too much rust or dirt, no signal gets back to ABS & thus the light comes on to warn you that your ABS is more than likely not going to work properly, so be careful, a wheel could lock up on quick stop situation. That said, I usually use emery cloth and lighty scuff the surface of the sensor, to clean it off, then a wire brush or whatever to clean the tabs, or notches, whichever you have. I also use contact spray on the sensor head, after just to be sure it's clean. I have seen penetrating spray used on them to remove rust too, but personally I shy away from that, in case it has chemicals that may deteriorate areas around face of sensors. As far as adjusting the air gap, I'd clean only for now, unless it looks like one is way off compared to others, from being hit by something or other. Good Luck, keep me posted. P.S. you may want to try the carwash thing, just in case that cures it, and if it doesn't, it cleans the area you'll be working in for you prior. After carwash, if you do, drive it a little, stop, shut car off, re-start a couple of times just to make sure sensors are re-reading signal.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528005fc53

By the sound of it, the ABS is showing failure, this can be due to moisture in the brake fluid, you may need to get the brakes fully bled to remove any moisture. Once the car warms up, the manifold vacuum is kicking in for your brakes to work properly, and this is usually when problems show up. Could also be that there is a vacuum leak somewhere between engine manifold and the brake assist unit. The ABS is simply lighting up to say that something isnt right. If bleeding the brakes doesnt fix it, the next step is to search the rubber vacuum line/s between the power brake unit and the engine intake manifold. If there is no problem there, could simply be an electrical fault that would be a 20 minute job for an auto electrician.