1990 Honda Accord - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Re check the valve timing, align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks, adjust the timing belt and torque the timing belt bolt properly. Hope that works.

what country , jose. and engine, lots used world wide IN USA? open hood, look up and BINGO, vac, map. my motto: NO YEAR NO MODEL No engine. (or transmission type A/T or M/T?, if that is in question) NO HELP (or your joy)

double posted, backup one.

Check for any arching in the distributor cap, the coil inside are very common to fail or brake down under load. Also check your fuel pressure by fitting a fuel gauge to vehicle and take it for a drive observing the readings and compairing it to manufactures specifications. Cheers.

Sorry no idea without my head under the bonnet to have a look.I would suspect a sensor not reading when it gets warm ,plug a scanner in and switch it to read data ,start car from cold then watch whats happening to the temperature and MAF and all the reat of it this will tell you what sensor is at fault

Low on freon tytytytytyv

Sounds like you have a leak in the heater core.

Heater core leaking. It will cause low coolent levels, moisture on the glass that won't go away. Green liquid leaking from under dash, wet floorboards. Hissing sounds when car is turned off coming from behind the dash. You may have some or all of the above symptoms.

your honda has Christmas lights, a 1990 honda? really? read the instructions?, if not clear, call china, LOL? or post instructions here, and ask what line makes no sense.

This could be a lot of things. IT could be the injectors or the fuel pump pressure, it could be the air intake, vacuum leak, etc.

Sounds like a bad motor bearing. Not good news. With all spark plugs out and belts to alternator, power steering, air conditioner, etc., loose, rotate the motor by hand to see if it's free.

brake, dont break your brakes. brake noise is a very bad sign, do not drive until you find the cause. at the least the pad wear marker is making noise, (too thin pads) warped rotors,? pedal pulsations. cracked rotors, death soon. pads down to metal, ditto pad holding parts bad. caliper sliders broken or fell out , loose or siezed. bad wheel bearings? suspension parts bad? why not , not guess, why not have an ASE certified mech, look at it just a look, not repair, sure you can afford a look. after all if it's Brakes, its very very serious. not only that , he can hear it , and feel it , as no one here can.

car, or engine? sounds like 2 problems at once to me. total catastrophic failure of the starter and an overheated engine. (much worse.....) please avoid turns on and off, engine do not turn on. engines" crank then start and run when you turn the key off, this kills the ignition and the engine stalls. if the starter was to stick on, you will hear it, key off. do you? did you? while not turn? the key or the engine.??????? do not drive any car with a stuck starter, or overheat problem.

sure there is, and cruise is the last thing to work right (safety) and the newer the car, the more rules. for safety. so is the Check Engine light showing all is happy? RTM? lost the operators guide? , ive posted it here 50 times. (searches work?) all fuses are covered in the guide. 1 more.. http://justgivemethedamnmanual.com/honda/honda-accord-owners-manuals/ the fsm , has a cruise chapter, (stock car cruise , only) and shows all tests to do. read it. again. the FSM http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ but the the ECU must be happy or most cars will not activate cruise. some early car CARB egines, and are totally different. in this regard. if PGM-FI system , use the diagnostic jumper to see scan DTC codes. (fuel injected system) end of chapter 6 for howto. chapter 16-254 ( end of PDF and chapter covers this) 89-91 FSM see it? 33.45 MB? 16-257 is the trouble shoot, chart. see that? and voltage tests. its all there, can be bad inputs to cruise brain, bad actuators. or pure mechanical failure.

open hood (USA) look up see map? or the FSM , its all there. http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

what are you talking about.?40 degrees? timing., air temperatures. what?and what is a honda ford F150? , a swap?honda engine in a fordor ford in honda. photos please.old post.

fuses. fuses that look bad are, fuses that look good can in fact be bad, use the DMM , press ohm.s0 ohms good,infinity bad.the DMM will never lie to you , if battery is good and fuse in side goodwe test the ohm scale by shorting the leads and see, 0 ohms.my meter is working, i can now test fuses. this is SOP standard operating procedures.

did they ever work in last year,? or buy car like this? does you car have the DIM-dip option? DRL.? we dont but in canada they do. so location not said, makes accurate answers hopeless.are all inside car lamps working? all that dim? via DIMMER?fuses that look ok can be bad. tiny cracks, smart techs use an OHMmeter to see if the fuse reads infinity (open)the dash dimmer work>on the DMM press OHM button. 0 = good, infinity = bad.here are the schematics. fSMhttp://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

Did you adjust the timing belt tension correctly?

no it is not. (late answer) is this a double post?all timing belts jump, 1: every 60k miles for most. ever read the service list.some top quality belts go bad at 100k miles. so.....????Honda uses an "interference" engine design. do not skip this service, or the whole engine can grenade !!!honda quote, pasted.However, since these engines utilize an interference design, it is highly recommended to at least inspect the timing belt at 60,000 mile (96,000 km) intervals. It is an even better idea to replace the belt at these intervals. On 1990-94 models, Honda recommends the timing belt to be replaced at 90,000 mile (144,000 km) intervals. On 1995 models, the recommended interval is 60,000 miles (96,000 km).end quote.and if the last guy put in a POS china belt, well, you are hosed.no name belts are junk, never ever use one,BTW i run Gates belts.