1998 Cadillac DeVille - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

compression tests identify problems with---head gaskets --- cracked heads , blocks--- valves not seating correctly---worn rings ---cracked pistons--- and general condition on the engine

get code/s from ecm, is it also missing cold hot?

run fault codes and look for cam/.crank position sensor . Check that the cam shaft is turning (broken belt)

check the care electric fuses there must be burned one in the same time positive wire attached with care body any where wasting the battery

Try put key in ignition turn to on just before it turns over and put battery charger on battery. Let it sit there for 30 min then turn off and do it again for a 5 min , then after the 5 min turn off and try to start it

look in the fuse box may have more than one.

use a code reader to reset the CPU

My book shows 3.0 ltr 1997-01 "V" engine with a timing belt recommended change at 100.000 miles or 60.000 miles under adverse conditions. It shows 3 idler pulleys that should be changed as well and all the cam and crank seals should be replaced as well because oil is the main killer of timing belts.. While you may consider the extra cost to be a burden you will not think so when you get 100.000miles trouble free in the timing belt area . Do not replace any of the items and you run the risk of all that work again in say 30.000 miles

if its under the hood then it is your cooling fans If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

FIRST CHECK FUSE,MAY HAVE POPPED OUT A LITTLE AND NOT MAKING GOOD CONTACT OR THE BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR IS BAD,LOCATED NEXT TO BLOWER MOTOR,EASY TO REMOVE,2 SCREWS HOLD IT ON AND IT'S PRICEY FOR YOURS.

First, according to the manual, disable the SIR system Fuse panel in trunk behind back seat driver's side Connection to left of steering column Remove glove box and unplug second SIR connector Then remove bottom insulator panel and disconnect battery HVAC programer can be pulled out of it's plastic cradle and then the top and bottom air door actuators must be removed Then just two screws and you have the heater core uncovered.

The security, antitheft or lock picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Vehicles computer will need to be scanned for trouble codes in order to find out what system was affected. Fuel, spark, emissions, trans.

Remove the plug from the coolent line, and gound them out as to close the switch, thus making the compressor think it has pressure to run, then you can add your coolent to proper lvl, the plug your wires back in.

Search for a video on that subject. I can't say the name of the site.I will get thrown off f here.

My first thought is your thermostat. One hundred ninety is not too hot.. Matter of fact, after you get it running it should always be way above 160 degrees... Simple things first... check your coolant level. Then make sure you have a good cap on the cooling system. (We used to call it a radiator cap) Your cooling system needs to operate under a certain amount of pressure. Anyway, the thermostats job is to start out closed so that the engine warms up quickly... and then doesn't begin opening until it gets up to about 180 or 190 degrees... then, any hotter than that, it becomes "wide open" for maximum cooling. One other possibility I just thought of.. Do you have an electric fan?? If the engine is, in fact, overheating, it's possible that you have an electric fan, or a sending unit, on the blitz. This is somewhat how things are in situations you described.... operates "normal" going down the road.... but "too hot" when you're stopped.... and it keeps getting hotter.

Have you checked your fluids?

you dont have a lot of options , you could drill out the lock and get one from a junk car.

Are you able to drive it in 1st gear? Is it just not catching 2nd, 3rd or 4th?

Sounds like he may have a fuel pump problem. Turn on the key and listen for the fuel pump 'buzz' for a few seconds. If it doesn't buzz or hum the fuel pump is more than likely bad.