1993 Cadillac DeVille - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Behind Right Side Of Dash (behind glove box)

try and google for the information as it may help

This is a pretty easy fix if you follow my instructions. You must first take an ohm meter set at 20k and touch the leeds(one red and one black)one to either side of the chip key. You may have to put the key in a vise or holder to get a good reading. The reading will be the value of the resistor in the key. Go to radio shack and buy a resistor of the value shown (the meter must be set at 20k) then under the dash coming directly from the ignition you will find 2 thin white wires cut those wires. Strip the two ends leading back to the harness or firewall and splice the resistor you bought in between the two that were stripped. Effectively bypassing the resistor reading switch (ignition) in the security system

there should be 2 power inputs in radio connector,1 for radio power other for memory. If you have both then radio would have to be sent out for repair.

Im assuming it failed. I have had this problem. Its very common in most GM cars. This happened to my Buick 3 years ago so I did a lot of research and found a company that sells the bypass that will fix it. You can even put it in yourself which saved me $350. Check it out and see if this might be the problem, Hopei could help. Do It Yourself GM Security bypass

THIS SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE TEMP BLEND DOOR THE ACURERATOR IS LOCATED ON THE EVAP HOUSING

These may have been set by the battery change and are what GM calls phamtom codes, clear the codes with the following.
Try this and see if the codes go away.

1. Re-enter diagnostics via the climate control panel and after all the codes appear you will see .7.0

2. Simultaneously push and hold the OFF and HI (^) buttons on the climate control panel until you see E.0.0 and release both buttons.

3. Turn ignition key OFF, Wait 15 seconds and re-enter diagnostics and see if the codes reappear. If they do NOT reappear, You are good to go.
After you have done this try starting the engine and see what codes re-appear, also run and OBD 2 test of the system at the diagnostic connector, this will give P codes that we are better able to find definitions for, the E codes are unique to just a few GM cars.

Check blinker relay and the light bulbs.

Tool`s needed 3/8 drive socket set. i`m assuming you want to remove the outer finder. to remove fender locate the row of bolts along the inside after you open the hood under the splash Gard and the inner wheel well and a few in and around the grille maybe even in the door cavity . Start at the bottom and work up saving the top row for last. to install just reverse. Good Luck and take your time

that's what ac's are for you silly boy

check your deck lid release lever or trunk release button power supply inside your glove box . the trunk should open up with no problem. you may test it by hot wiring it if you have to,

Booster problems are rare but they do go bad sometimes. A bad booster generally causes the brake pedal to feel hard to push down, and a lot of pressure on the brake pedal is required to make the car stop. Rarely, a vacuum brake booster will develop a vacuum leak, which can cause engine performance problems, hissing or whistling noise, as well as requiring increased pressure on the brake pedal to stop. The first test: With the vehicle parked, turned OFF, and the parking brake set, pump the brake pedal 5 to 6 times. If the pedal gets harder to push after several times, your booster is probably good. The second test (To make sure): After the test above, without making any changes, press and hold the brake pedal with light to moderate pressure. Now with your foot still on the brake pedal, start the vehicle. If the booster is good, you will feel the pedal go down when the engine starts. Hope this helps!

The pcm is located behind your glove compartment. you may be able to lower your glove box, but most likely you will have to remove your dash to get to it . if you have anymore questions feel free to contact me

The air compressor on mine was under the hood on the driver's side, in front of the master cylinder

That means that a relay is fused try finding the fused relay under the wheel in the drivers cabin.

check all your fuses first, if they are all good, check for bad ground in dash panel

The security, antitheft or lock picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Take it to a shop that can check the trouble codes but most likely the computer or a sensor for TPS or Mass Air flow. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_411a7faba7ce8217

Go to the dealer AND ASK FOR THEM TO LOOK AT THE PART IN QUESTION, THEY CAN id IT.

If you are getting oil in your radiator or reservoir, you most likely have a blown head gasket, or cracked block or head. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/tom_1788908372a4836f