20 Most Recent 1989 Cadillac Brougham Questions & Answers

Mr. Lakewood,
The thermostat is in the housing at the end of the top radiator hose where it connects to the engine manifold. The thermostat housing is clamped onto the hose and is bolted to the engine manifold by two bolts.
1. Drain enough coolant from the cooling system to a level below the height of the thermostat housing.
2. Remove the two bolts and separate the housing from the manifold.
3. Remove the thermostat from the engine. You may have to pry it out if it is stuck. (Don't be alarmed if there is no thermostat. Some mechanics remove them for troubleshooting).
4. Scrape off the old gasket and sealant from the housing and the manifold.
5. Install new thermostat, pointy side towards radiator.
6. Use Permatex #2 (non-hardening sealant) on both sides of the new gasket and bolt down the housing.
7. Replenish cooling system.
8. Start engine, allow to warm up and check for leaks.
9 *done*

The Permatex #2 gasket sealant ($4 AutoZone) is in a small tube. One small tube is more than enough.

It's not a direct bolt in. (sorry) Olds mounts and housing aren't even close. Just about any olds motor (you can find them at any salvage/engine rebuilder pretty reasonable) will bolt in. It would take alot of work to work the chev into Caddy.

have an accredited service shop do a carby check as it could be a float level to high, incorrect mixture adjustment or power valve /pump incorrectly fitted black smoke is excessive fuel and a rebuilt carby, if done by a DIY, is always suspect

Can be so many things, special after you changed (rebuilt it) things. Can be a plug, wrongly connected, build in a defective part. A bad dynamo or voltage regulator. Try to find what is working and where the voltage is not coming or to low. Would be almost impossible for anyone else to diagnose, if a skilled rebuilder can't find what is wrong, when he is working on the car.

Think this model is a fuel sending unit located INSIDE the gas tank. Sure it needs one? Check all your fuses and relays associated with the fuel delivery system. When you turn your key to the :"Run" or "On" position, do you hear a whine coming from the rear (fuel tank area) of your car? If you do, you dont need a fuel pump. If not, double check all fuses and relays and wires & connections. The part is expensive and very difficult to replace by the average shade tree mechanic. I would rather pay someone else to do it and I am pretty good with good tools - it is that difficult. Good luck.

This is a chat room Were at home & use the site like you do No info like that here Check all the fuses,the sizes are in your owners manual & on the fuse panel

Located in the Carb.where the main fuel line goes into.Please use 2 wrenchs to remove the line and the filter housing otherwise you may bend and damage the fuel line. When putting in the new filter remove the rubber and spring that goes into the new filter....Tjis is not a necessary item and it will resiult in a better fuel flow.

It probably is your P/S Belt. The P/S belt is adjusted different than the other belts. There is a slot in the pully that has to be lined up with the adjusting bolt on the pump. I think the adjusting bolt is more towsrd the bottom part of the pump. Tighten this up and that should repair the screaming.

Hello we do not have wiring diagrams here, they are copy protected. You can download them for a small fee here