probably do have codes the abs light is a' check engine light'it carries codes most likely problem is an abs sensor failing /failed this also ties bin with your traction control system check hubs --sensors and wiring for failing or damage
Have you tried to reset the CPU system in the car .take off your negative cable and turn your head lights on for about 10 to 20 minutes this will insure your CPU system is drained of it's back up power.it does hold charge after your car is disconnected from the battery...please be sure to reprogram your key ?? in your system this will reset all settings....and the computer will need to re learn your key codes Start your car after you reprogram your key drive around for about 30 min to let the car reprogram all your cars functions.... it'll take about 30 min so put a battery cables or a power source to your battery to make sure it don't die...also look up the key reprogram ignition key reprograming system theft deterrent will come on....this is the only thing I can think of if your car ain't doing what you need it to be doing...hope this helps it's a big mission but it's better then paying 1000s of dollars...
https://www.autocodes.com/p0172_honda.html this link is for your code ---but as to the knocking sound sounds like over heating and you have engine damage --check for leaks [[the valve sounds like a petcock for draining system ]] and before trying to fix code check and test the cooling system compression valvetrain oil for water infiltration and plugs for water fouling
The best solution you'll get from books at www.reliable-store.com
These are books containing info on repair, service, troubleshooting, parts info, assem bling dissemble, removal, error/fault codes, wiring diagrams and everything on any vehicle- cars, atv, trucks. forklifts, boats, excavators etc.
low speed shakes indicates a wheel alignment problem
have the suspension and wheel bearings checked out by an accredited suspension shop
under acceleration it could be engine mounts cracked in the rubber being actuated by misfiring form a cylinder
run the fault codes as well
Like most newer vehicles this one has no inline fuel filter, it does have a strainer screen of Nylon mesh in the fuel tank at the inlet to the fuel pump, it never needs to be serviced unless the fuel pump is replaced.
Hi, your vechicle has whats called a "vss"sensor. I.e. a vechicle speed sensor. Usually down on the tranmission,its what gives the ecm its info. I would check that. Hope that helps.
Put the fuses back...
been there... shouldn't have done that.
Hello Barbara Boggs,
A couple of careers in third tier advanced electronic...
I cannot stress WHAT a BAD IDEA upping
the FUSE past engineered capacity is...
Trust me... my personal experience from the same
"STUNT" was to fry an entire wiring harness, start a
fire and get a second degree burn in the process...
(OK... truth was I shorted over (right on past) the fuse
(absolutely KNEW where the fault was when I finished)).
(((In the middle of all that soot))).
That what they call "experience" (aka: scars).
Didn't seem all that clever... at the time...
(44 years later it sounded like an idea
It is either the Driver Multiplex Control Unit ... a direct feed back from the "Dash Light Brightness Controller"...
If you do NOT have the Factory+WORKSHOP+repair books go to BBB Industries (URL below, registration required). They have your "instrument" lights liste there... No relevant Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs).
Hope this helps.
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there is a ball bearing in the valve slide inside the oilpan on modern cars it has oil travel holes in it & when you move the gear selector it pushes the ball bearing into one of the holes which then allows the oil to service the gear you selected-its stuck---if earlier model there is an ajuster rod which could be bent causing it to lock into drive only --auto transmission mechanic job i fear