20 Most Recent 2003 Honda Accord - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Look on the exhaust manifold just before it connects to the exhaust at the doughnut gasket

Get your fuel tank cleaned out and change the fuel filter

The a/c clutch circuit is controlled by the PCM on your Accord. It receives all necessary inputs from the car, and the driver's requests, using odvious buttons, switches, pressure switches, and several engine inputs to determine whether or not to engage the comp. Engine load/accel, temp., ambient temp, etc will all affect this. Also, if all seems normal, I have run into two of this generation Accords that had the control circuit drivers inside the PCM burned out by sloppy a/mrkt alarm system installers. These guys wreak havoc on most newer cars, because they aren't trained to properly isolate/disconnect sensitive electronics that can be damaged easily by shorting wires, or tapping into a circuit that should not be used for this purpose, etc. Good luck! And the security/immobilizer systems in the newer vehicles have NO NEED for additional security add-ons. If someone tries to sell you on them, they are scamming you for money, PERIOD.

I had a similar leak on a 1995 Accord. I traced the issue to the plastic liner behind the door panel. The seal was broken at the bottom and water would leak from that to the rubber weatherstrip at the bottom of the door that seals at the plastic threshold molding. You can't really see it good until the door panel is removed. The water would drip until it puddled up enough to run over the threshold molding and under the driver's seat. This caused the floorboard behind the driver's seat to be soaked after a rain. I have resealed the plastic lining but of course it hasn't rained since. I'm confident this will solve my problem and hopefully provide you a new place to look for yours.

Take one out and go to your local hardware store to match up. Or lay a piece a paper over the hole scribble over with a pencil. Take that with you to hardware store to match diameter of the hole as best as possible.

Not related, first is a transmission output speed sensor code, check the connector, it's probably the reason you have slamming when it s cold. second code is for low vtec oil pressure, usually caused by low engine oil or dirty/wrong viscosity oil being used.

It could be a problem in the ignition switch, where the connections for the ACC items are not making contact. Does the heater fan or windsheild wipers work when the cd doesn't?

Ball joints and tie rods may even be a bad wheel bearing replace them in pairs

Hi, Look in the Owner's Manual on how to check the Power Steering fluid. Also the belt may need adjusted or replaced. GL, TD

if not braking? just before (all braking makes heat) this means the brakes are dragging a very dangerous condition. get it repaired pronto.

Does it drag when you let off the gas pedal? If it does then it is your caliper!

Yes I agree with the air leak theory. Code 507 actually means the computer can not bring the idle speed down using the iac valve. Look for a vac leak between the throttle body and intake or something holding the throttle plate open.

The o2 sensors don't do anything untill the car is up up operating temp. After that they fine tune the fuel mixture,if they were bad,you should see a small decrease in fuel mileage.They do wear out ,like a battery kinda,but not usually both at the same time. The front one "takes a reading" then the rear one, the computer figures out if there is too much or too little o2. So anything wrong with the engine,like a bad spark plug wire, exhaust leak ,vacuum leak or bad fuel could set those codes. If it still runs fine,like you say,I would first think of a fuel problem,lots of corn in the gas these days,run it down to 1/4 or so ,fill it with good fuel and add some deicer "heat" or similar. The O2 code won't shut the car off or anything, won't leave you stranded,the light is on because the emissions levels are above the preset limit in the computer. Hope there's some help here ,maybe someone else will chime in ......