Try putting the gear selector in the neutral position . park neutral safety switch . Wouldn't need reprogramming , if it did you wouldn't be able to do it . Dealer only . Your best bet mite be to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop any way . Viewing wiring diagrams for the starter circuit an using a DMM - digital multi-meter to test B+ power & ground's is how to find a fix. Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How automotive electrical circuit's work ? How to use a DMM.
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click engine then under subsystem click starting . Click the search button then the blue link . Looking at the diagram i see the ignition switch supplying B+ voltage to the starter cut relay ! Do you know what a relay is ? If the B+ can't make it through the coil side of the relay to the park neutral switch to ground the relay will not energize an close the contacts an send B+ voltage to the starter solenoid . You can test at the relay for B+ control from the ignition switch . Video's on youtube on checking relay circuit's
Not sure where you are having the problem, but if you removed the bolts on one of your motor mounts and use a floor jack to move the motor around a little that may give you the room you need, Just be careful not to go to far and brake something like a wire etc, good luck.
code p 0335 refers to crankshaft position sensor (CKP)---circuit malfunction===causes ---wiring---CKP sensor ---ECM
the wires are a good place to start and check for damaged insulation , broken wires or bad harness connections
next there is an air gap setting between the sensor and the exciter (segmented bars on a ring) on the crankshaft check that is correct ---dimension available from the workshop manual
its probably a blown bulb it might be a double filament bulb and only the one side of the bulb still works making you think theres nothing wrong with the bulb hope this helps
What all did you remove to get to the TCC solenoid. The TCC and shift B solenoids are right next to each other. About 12 inches away is the A and B pressure solenoids. The plugs are black and brown and fit on either side( they are long enough to get crossed).
A leaking front seal will allow oil to get into the area where the timing belt is located. This will cause oil to get on the belt and can cause damage. Since the timing cover must be removed to access the front seal, it is recommended to replace the belt while you are in there. Also, the water pump is driven off the timing belt. Replacement of the water pump is always recommended when replacing the timing belt for two reasons. First, it is easily replaced at this time and it is good preventive maintenance. Secondly, the water pump bearing is under tension from the timing belt and develops a wear pattern. Replacement of the belt without replacing the pump will cause the new belt to wear the bearing in a different pattern, often causing leaking in a very short time after the replacement. This would then result in having to repeat all the labor again to replace the pump. It is easy to see that for $400.00 labor, you don't want to do that again in only 2-3 months. as far as the VTEC valve is concerned, I don't see a relationship to the oil leak. It could just be something else the mechanic found during the inspection. I can find nothing in the remove/replace procedures that requires replacement of the oil pan gasket. Again, maybe something additional that is needed from visual inspection, but not needed for the front seal.
fuel pump could be going bad and requiring to much voltage and blowing the fuse, or there could be a short in the wiring. My guess is fuel pump is probably in need of replacement
if you are loosing coolant the problem must be addressed first. but if not I would blow out the condenser and radiator fins. bugs and debris clogging the condenser or the radiator will limit airflow.
Check the No. 59 (7.5A) fuse in the under-hood fuse
/relay box, and the No. 3 (7.5A) fuse in the driver's
under-dash fuse/relay box.
It could be that one of these 2 fuses are blown and that would cause the a/c clutch relay to not engage