20 Most Recent 1992 Honda Prelude - Page 4 Questions & Answers

check the temp. sensor

You need to replace the brake Pads, Turn the Rotors and probably replace the caliper on one of those sides. Either the right side isn't grabbing correctly or the left side is grabbing too much. Test the mater Cylinder for a possible blockage and make sure you bleed both calipers before you start replacing parts.

your selector switch is bad i hope this helps please give good rating thank you

sounds like you battery is flat,get a jump start of a friend.

the control panel is your dash board. unfortunately, honda dealers are not always accurate about their work. the best way to make sure your car is not overheating is by using a temperature gun and pointing it at the engine. if you dont have a temperature gun, then you can check using your fans. your fans, are designed to turn on for periods of around 10 seconds when the car reaches a certain temperature. so what you can do, is turn on the car, let the car reach its operating temperature, and start watching the fans. if your car starts to overheat and the fans dont turn on at all, it either means your tw is bad, or your fan switch is bad. if your car begins to over heat and the fans come on and dont turn off, then it means your car really is over heating. if your dash shows your car over heating and the fans turn off after a couple of seconds, then once again, it points to a bad tw. the tw(water temperature sensor) is sends the temperature of the coolant to the dash, and do go bad some times. it is pretty simple to change. directly under neath the distributor, there are two sensors with cables attached to them. one of the sensors which has two wires, is the etc(enging temperature control) and the other one with only one wire is the tw(water temperature sensor). if your car is not over heating, then it most likely points to that because when the dash goes bad, usually more than one of the needles goes bad, or the needle jumps alot. hope this helps, and if you need more help, leave a comment and ill be glad to help. goodluck

Is it revving up when the car is idling? Is the idle speed higher than it should be? If so, you either have a vaccum leak, or your idle air control valve is bad. Sounds like the second, but i'd take it by autozone and have them pull the check engine light codes to be sure. They do it for free. If they say its a vaccum leak, let me know and I'll explain how to find it.

Did you check the maxi fuses under the hood.... check with a volt meter....

That would most likely be a code 17 from your ecu that is the vehicle speed censer.... E-bay under 20 bucks shipped out... On top of transmission. take off the intake tube it will be between the throttle body and distributor has two 10mm bolts and to save you some trouble don't take off the power steering lines the censer sits on top and separates.... this should fix your problem .... :)

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Under vw logo there is a special hole, just put a hook inside and there you go!

Try replacing your spark plug wires. It is probably just misfiring, which will cause the engine to "surge" and then back off. This will repeat until the misfire is fixed. I would start with replacing the spark plug wires, and if you have any more problems, let me know. The radiator cap coming off would have eventually caused the engine to overheat, but it sounds like you didn't let it get that far. The spark plug wires may have gotten wet due to the radiator cap coming off, and now the spark plug wires are shorting out worse than they probably already were. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

It is standard thread (right handed) and a little more information if you need it: there is a hole on the rear of the block on the drivers side located just behind the rear balance shaft so you can lock your engine #1 cylinder @ TDC with a 6mmX100mm bolt or screwdriver. there is a hole machined into the balance shaft that holds everything still so you can get done....I would also recommend the use of an impact....IT IS TIGHT!!!

FUSE

1. Locate the service check connector and, if applicable, remove the cap. On 1988-91 Preludes, the cap is yellow and the connector is located next to the vacuum control box in the engine compartment. On 1992-95 Preludes, the service connector is located under the middle of the dash. On 1990-93 Accords, the connector is blue and is located behind the right front kick panel, under the dashboard. On 1994-95 Accords, the service connector is located behind the glove box. Use a jumper wire to connect the two terminals of the service connector.
   

1. Following the manufacturers instructions, connect a timing light to the engine. The positive and negative leads connect to their corresponding battery terminals and the spark plug lead to No. 1 spark plug wire.
2. Make sure that all wires are clear of the cooling fan and hot exhaust manifolds.
3. Set the parking brake and block the front wheels. Start the engine. Check that the idle speed is set to specifications.
4. Point the timing light at the timing marks. On all models except 1994-95 Accords, the marks are on the flywheel. On the 1994-95 Accords, the timing marks are on the crankshaft pulley. When the engine is idling, the red mark must align with the pointer. Some timing marks are indicated by 3 lines; the center one must be aligned with the pointer.

1. If necessary to adjust the timing, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt(s) and/or nut and slowly rotate the distributor in the required direction while observing the timing marks.
2. To complete the adjustment operation, tighten the hold-down bolt, taking care not to disturb the adjustment.
3. Switch the engine OFF . Reinstall the rubber plug in the timing window and remove the timing light. Remove the jumper wire.

Fig. Fig. 4: Service connector on 1988-91 Preludes

Fig. Fig. 5: Service connector on 1992-95 Preludes

in the h22a, h22a4 if you have and internal coil you perform a voltage out put test (use your multi meter or just take it to autozone). also ohm out your igniter to make sure that you have continuity. if not you may consider buying the entire dizzy housing to ensure that whatever caused the igniter to burn out will just cause it to burn out again.

People remove the t-stat because of overheating, (it sticks closed) this is a temp fix, you probibly have an air lock in the cooling system. sometimes it can take 30 minuntes to work out, make sure the cooling fans kick on.

You don't need a new dash. There are a few things that can cause that though. It could be a bad fuse, bad dash voltage regulator, lost ground at sending unit, bad sending unit. You would need a voltage meter to test the wires for current. The fuse is the easy fix. If you need anything else, just let me know. I am here to help. Thanks for choosing FixYa.