1991 Honda Prelude - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is usually a relay control center under the hood. Look for a black box, it will have a cover on it, should say on lid Relay center, the diagram will either be on outside of lid or under side of lid, it will tell you which one is the pump relay

I think you know enough, that there is no fix other than
removing the transaxle & doing a complete clutch service

You shouldn't have driven it at all for some time now
& you knew that as well,but it all has to come apart
& everything replaced, so it really didn't matter

No some day, when you own an automatic,you stop driving
it as soon as you can get it home or to a shop, or you
will ruin it in a matter of less than an hour,once they slip

You will need the flywheel machined or replaced
A new Clutch Pressure Plate
A New Clutch Disc
New Clutch Slave Cylinder & Throw out Brg

As I said trans has to come out first

Figure you may go as high as $1000.00

there is a cable mounted on the altanator farsten by a 12mm nut if that is broken or not hooked up
unit will not charge. use a tester to check for continuety or chech conection on battery harness

most shops will smoke test this problem, and will most likely be done by the hourly rate of that shop. average is between $65.00 to $85.00 an hour

Your speedo is not electric so it is driven by a cable. There is a problem in two locations. First is the cable itself not having the proper amount of grease and it is starting to fray. Second is the gear inside you speedo and it is worn out or some of the gear teeth is missing. Unfortunately there is not a quick fix. Good Luck

check under the drivers side just behind the front door ,you should see a plastic guard under there move the shield away and there will be the pump.

Could be a bad body ground.

The speedometer sensor is located on the top of the transmission. It is held on by one bolt. Remove the bolt and gently pull and turn the speedometer sensor and the whole assembly will come out of your transmission.


Park your Honda Prelude on a level surface, activate the emergency brake and place blocks behind the back tires for safety. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a terminal puller.

Raise the vehicle on the side of the wheel speed sensor's location. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.

Disconnect the sensor electrical connection from the wiring harness.

Take note of the connection location for the sensor retainers, grommets and clips. You will need to know this information for the installation process.

Start at the connector end of the sensor cable and remove grommets, clips and retainers in order to free the harness.

Unscrew the sensor mounting bolt and remove the sensor from the differential housing.

Install the new speed sensor by reversing the removal process. Loosely secure the sensor and sensor harness connection in place, taking precaution to keep the harness from twisting or bending. Once in place, torque the sensor mounting bolt to 16 foot pounds (22 Nm). Tighten any bracket bolts to 84 inch pounds (10 Nm).

Lower the vehicle safely and reconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to your owner's manual to perform an ABS system check to confirm that you installed the sensor properly.

pump up the brake pedal a few times, hard as you can, it should self adjust.

in the fuel tank

does it even crank? put the old ones back and if it starts then you have the wrong spark plugs or they were not gapped correctly.

hi..this is beacuse of sluggish working of the linkages which should increase the gas flow through the injector when you accelarate. due to the sluggish operation its takes time to increase the amount of gas going to injector. so please check the linkages and tighten it accordingly.

please rate me weather the information which i provided was usefukll to you by clicking on the thumbs present on the end of your page.thank you

Wow, you have the rare 2.1. Could be: bottom end (rod bearings), main bearings, piston slap from a scarred cylinder wall (worn rings from massive overheating or no oil). If it were valves it would be ticking, if you have knocking it's serious. If you heard it and didn't run the car anymore you could have got away with changing the bearings. Sounds like your crank is shot and will need turned if you decide to have the engine rebuilt.

Replace the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). It is affordable on eBay. It is on your transmission, near the back, but accessible from the top after you remove a few things. Start with the air box intake tube, etc. Then you'll see a sensor with a cable going to it.

Get another key made, sounds like your key is either a new cut that is slightly out of alignment or it is an old key that is worn. If that doesn't fix it then you may need a new ignition column (tumbler). Try your key(s) on your door locks and your trunk lock to see if the same problem exists.

Sounds like you may have battery drain . Take the vehicle to a shop and have them check out battery and charging system. If this is a-ok then its either the wires behind the alternator that are corroded or you have battery drain. They will set up a voltmeter off the battery trminals and start pulling fuses until the neter readings are normal. Whatever fuse they pull that makes the current return to normal is the affected circuit.

remove the #1 spark plug. rotate the engine in the direction it rotates when operating. use a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft bolt. while cranking, place your finger over the spark plug hole. when you feel pressure building. insert a wooden dowel into the hole and contact the piston. while holding the dowel against the piston, continue cranking while observing the dowel. when the piston reaches the top, the dowel will stop and begin reversing direction. when it starts reversing direction, stop and crank it back to the top. go slowly when performing all steps. obviously this procedure works best with 2 people.

the #1 plug should be the first one at the front of the engine. if you remove all plugs it will be easier to turn.

No. 1 CYLINDER POSITION (CYL SENSOR)

Try another known good distributor. The signal comes from inside the distributor.

usually the freeze plugs are located on the engine block underneith the heads.

Because the battery is going dead. If the alternator was at fault, the car would die after 3 hrs or less of driving, and it wouldnt restart. Same with the voltage regulator. The only culprit when a car starts like it was the last time, is when the battery is getting charged, but it is unable to hold it. If you turn off car, and restart it right away, and it sounds fine, it is one more indication of an exhausted battery.