20 Most Recent 2003 Cadillac CTS - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The #2 cylinder is the second from the passenger side of the car on the engine.

The timing marks are on the camshaft and crankshaft gears and should be aligned DOT to DOT. The firing order is 1,3,4,2.

May want to have to oil pressure checked and check the oil pressure switch for signs of leaking. If the switch is loosing signal then the ECM triggers the stop engine warning light.

The car doesn't use a heater control valve but, mode door and temperature blend door actuators.

If the climate control is stuck on HOT or COLD then you may have to remove the dash and heater box to make the repair.

Just turn the car on, but Dont start it and put it in nutruel then start it... This she work til you can afford to fix it...

Probably laying on some hot component. You could call a salvage yard for replacement wiring harness or fix individual wires one at a time ...

Low brake fluid level could cause that. Bad ABS wheel sensor. Brake switch. Go to Autozone and ask them to put the scanner on and see what codes you're getting.

sounds like your brake system has no hydraulic pressure which means it wont engage the lockout controls on the shifter find the hydraulic leak. repair, fill, bleed, braking system. then it should change gears and start.

Sounds like the switch mechanism is not returning properly to the fully OFF position. Best to go by a dealer and ask a service advisor about it.

CTS 2003-2005 Removal Procedure...3.2L Engines

1. Drain the cooling system.
2. Remove the radiator inlet hose from the coolant outlet pipe
3. Remove the bolt securing the oil level indicator tube, coolant outlet pipe and engine front lifting bracket from the cylinder head.
4. Remove the coolant outlet pipe from the thermostat housing.
5. Remove the O-ring seals from the coolant outlet pipe. Discard the O-rings.
6. Remove the intake manifold.
7. Remove the thermostat housing bolts (1) (image 1 attached)
8. Remove the thermostat housing with thermostat (2), from the engine (image 1 attached).
9. Remove and discard the seal ring.
10. Remove the thermostat from the thermostat housing (image 2 attached).

To install:

1. Install the thermostat into the thermostat housing.
2. Install a new seal ring.
3. Position the thermostat housing with thermostat, to the engine.
4. Install the thermostat housing bolts and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
5. Install the intake manifold.
6. Lubricate 2 new O-ring seals with coolant.
7. Install the new O-ring seals around the coolant outlet pipe grooves.
8. Insert the coolant outlet pipe (3) into the thermostat housing.
9. Install the bolt securing the oil level indicator tube, coolant outlet pipe and engine front lifting bracket to the cylinder head and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
10. Connect the radiator inlet hose to the coolant outlet pipe.
11. Fill the cooling system.

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There are two locatons for the fuse and relay llocations one is under the hood on the passenger side and the other is under the back seat!!!

Check the chilton or haynes repair manuals, I believe you can also find this out on line. just make sure its on the compression stroke and the marks are exact. I have a tool that holds the dual over head cams in the correct in position. Good luck with your project.

The center head Or Plenium is basically easy to do. First disconnect the negative batter cable, open gas cap on the gas tank. After about 15 mins disconnect the fuel lines. Take the star sockets and remove the 4 bots off the center vaccum ports. Carefuly place these back towards the fire wall. secure with a zip tie. Loosten the plenium bolts and take the top off and the loosen the bottom removing the o rings, replace them once you goo to reinstall plenium. hope this helps. PS Take some pictures so you know how everything goes back to gether.

Check the vacuum hose to the brake booster. The booster is on the drivers side. Behind the brake master cylinder. Big round and black. Mounted on the fire wall. One hose going to it from the engine. If the hose is broken, replace it. If it is good, look at replacing the brake booster. It has a diaphragm in it that can leak. This is a vacuum leak and will cause what you have explained. Brake boosters aren't cheap. Try a junk/salvage yard first. They don't go bad that often.

bad piston rings, replace the pulley

you have a bad stepper motor or bad control unit

Bad crank sensor Broken reluctor ring (missing teeth, debris lodged in ring) Reluctor ring dislodged/stripped from it's stationary location Wiring harness chafing causing short Wiring open in CKP circuit

take off the timing cover