2000 Cadillac DeVille - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds like the bolt that holds the shift linkage to the transmission has come loose.

If the fluid level is ok then you need the transmission repaired/rebuilt.

test codes in abs/tcs and ecm

where is the block heater located on avalanche

SHOCKS LEAKING LOOK AT RUBBER BOOTS. SPRAY WITH SOAPY WATER YOU'LL SEE LEAKS

UNDER BACK SEAT, PULL SEAT BOTTOM UP ON BOTH SIDES, FUSE PANEL ON DRIVER SIDE

when there\'s air in the cooling system it can give a super hot reading because there;s no coolant where the temp sensor is located-when coolant passes over this super heated area it will boil -thus causing the boil over effect-with no coolant in the heater core it will not heat either-try adding coolant -run a little till it gets hot then shut off-make sure there\'x coolant in the over flow bottle as it cools back down it will suck coolant back into the system-don\'t let it run out or it will suck air back in-it will take a few heat and cooling cycles to get the air out. at the shop I work at we use a tool to suck all the air out of the system and then open a valve and the vacume draws the antifreeze back into the system. If you can\'t get the system to take antifreeze you may have a leaking head gasket that is pressurizing the system and blowing out the antifreeze-this could be diagnosed by a mechanic-cheers Denny

Pressure test the cooling system to determine exactly where the leak is coming from first. Cadillac 4.6L engines have been known to leak externally from the head gaskets.

Either you have a broken shifter, cable or possibly the range sensor (also known as the neutral safety switch).

This could be a major or minor, lets hope the later. Park your car on level ground run the engine at operating temp, remove the transmission dip stick to ensure the oil level is correct while the engine is idling. If thats ok, I suspect a faulty or leaking vacuum solenoid on the transmission, do an inspection of your vacuum hoses under the hood to make sure they are tight and not cracked or split. Hope its a simple fix for you. cheers

check the distributor

Check your fuses, they are on the same circuit. If thats not it, then possibly wiring, last is the Body Control Module. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_e95d2f9c1ac9610d

Are you loosing engine coolant.In you have a Northstar the head bolts rip out of the block and cause a coolant leak to the cylinder.Pull that spark plug and see if it has a large white buildup on the plug. If it does you probably need a $4500.00 repair

No-one will be able to give you a accurate price. Not even close, without knowing what's actually going on with it, strongly suggest you have a shop look at it.

No. The starter only comes into play when you are cranking the engine.

Could be low on freon, a problem with the main controller, or one of the blend doors.

Usually the compressor leaks freon, or makes alot of noise, or is stuck and won't turn.

Hi there:DTC P0340 - CMP (Camsahft Position) Sensor Circuit MalfunctionCHeck details HERE.

A bit of troubleshooting is needed to figure out what is wrong. Most common possibilities are blown fuses, blower motor resistor failure, motor failure, or switch. Assuming you've already checked the fuses or you would not be posting for a solution... ;)

Without some electronic testing with a meter I'd think towards this checklist:

Sometimes when a cabin heater fan motor is failing you can give the ductwork around the fan motor area a fairly good wrap with your hand (not enough to do any damage to the duct work or your hand, if it hurts you hit it too hard!) while it is powered on and if the motor suddenly starts turning that usually indicates fan motor failure. Or if it seems to work in warmer temps but not in colder, that can also be a sign of a faulty motor.

With the vehicle off and battery disconnected the blower motor resistor and it's connector can usually be visually inspected for degradation. You can Google up your make/model/year of vehicle along with "blower motor resistor" and typically get a visual of where thething is located and what the part SHOULD lok lijke, Typically they are up on the firewall somewhere. YMMV

If those check out, and you have of course ruled out the fuses, I'd start thinking about the switch, but before I took the time to tear into the dash I'd get a halfway decent digital multi-tester for ~$20-$25, and learn how to use it to test the switch, motor, and wiring. Otherwise it's just a lot of labor and guess work, and those motors and switches can both get pretty pricey.

Good luck!

Could be a number of problems. Could be a bad fan motor, blown fuse, or bad fan relay.