When the engine is turning without ignition but is injecting fuel, that fuel and air is pumped through the engine into the exhaust where it will build up until sooner or later it will ignite with explosive force.
This is what happens when there is a bad misfire due to an ignition fault.
I suggest you check your spark plugs and ensure there is a powerful spark available at each spark plug.
The caliper is bolted on by sliding pins that allow the caliper to adjust itself. I would assume the sliding pins are stuck. The bolts slide inside the carrier that holds the calipers.
Try changing the temperature sending unit. This regulates the cold start mode and it appears it's still in cold start mode and still feeding it too much fuel, causing a flooding condition and making it die at stops. When you depress throttle to go, it's still getting too much fuel and wants to bog and die on take-off.
1989 1997 CADILLAC DEVILLE REPAIR MANUAL
Maybe bearing of the car has worn out.
Check it out.
If there's a problem you can fix it using this manual link I have attached.
I feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the
Reliable-Store they will help you for sure.
1989 1997 CADILLAC DEVILLE REPAIR MANUAL
Have heard of condensation causing that problem on distributor caps. Don't know why it couldn't be a problem for coils. Maybe a crack getting moisture inside.
In that 30 to 40 min. when it won't start , check for spark at the coil ! Pull a plug wire off the engine , an hold near ground , If no spark could be the ignition module . Which engine does your caddy have ? 4.9 or 4.6 L
Hello James Squyres, Of the 33 TSBs (tech service bulletins)... I found nothin on your issue... Going to the vehicle drawings... (I'm guessing you are considering keeping this beauty)... Get the FACTORY+WORKSOP+MANUAL... I HIGHLY recommend for drawing (exactly this issue) and easy secrets to get through those nasty UNIQUE Caddy tasks.. that NO body but your friendly CADDILAC Club might ALSO know... Nevertheless... your drawings are presently available on one of my favorite sites "BBB Industries: (see below, registration required). Perusing the drawings... The only source not shared with your manual ignition source appears to be through your "TRUNK RELEASE" function.. is sourced (without the ignition) through "THE TRUNK LID LATCH SWITCH"... (ground source). I am thinking LATCHED (totally defective, replace) contacts there would cause your problem... BUT... on further consideration... The drawing show a total TRAVEL of the un-latched lock should completely open the ground circuit... reversing POLARITY of the motor and ready it for the LATCHING sequence... To me... It looks to be the trunk lock TRUNK-LID PULL DOWN MOTOR STRIKER SWITCHES... failing to release (change polarity) in the UP position... Replace the "TRUNK-LID ADJAR" switch. Everything SHOULD come up peaches... As to why it is not an issue with manual control... I'd need to be there with a Volt-Ohm Meter (perhaps we could dialog)... Happy hunting... 8/11/2016... post week-long silenceSo... 9 DAYs laterlittle more dialog is not acceptable (?) I'll go to my monolog:If you don't know how to run a Volt-Ohm MeterI'm wasting your time (GOOD DIGITAL $10).Because of the POLARITY REVERSAL (to push the latch up (when radio-released))...IS A GROND START SEQUENCE..!!It is not reasonable to look beyond the mechanical contacts (which I ALREADY) noted... previously. The full open motion(at the end of the open cycle)...Should push the contacts (to reverse polarity)... STOPPING THE UPWARD DIRECTION...The battery contact (close sequence) is a BATTERY START SEQUENCE) is triggered by gentle push of the trunk lid into the LATCH.It the travels down tightening the trunk-lid into place... and reversing the MOTOR POLARITY again at the FULL CLOSED POSITIONThe ONLY thing that can keep the motor running is bad contact in the release switch... or (somebody) HAYWIRED it.It would HAVE BEEN be nice to know if you UNDERSTAND the electro-mechanical nature of your lock assembly.HAVE you done any rewiring (HAYWIRING) would be the PRIME CONCERN...ELSE... It is the trunk latch contacts.When last I looked ... those parts were still available...and having spare parts for a collector quality car cannot be that DISTASTFUL...I'd give it a TRY (I'm just saying) BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Productshttp://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1995,deville,4.6l+v8,1025323,electrical-switch+&+relay,trunk+lid+release+switch,48281995 CADILLAC DEVILLE 4 6L V8 Trunk Open Warning Switch RockAutoMore Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS DS939More Information for ACDELCO 16889150
There's a motor that pulls the trunk lid down after it latches. The motor is under the latch on the body side. to test it, push a philips screwdriver shank into the latch like it was grabbing the trunk pull down motor to see if it triggers the motor to operate