20 Most Recent 1992 Cadillac Seville - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The sunroof has a relay between the fuse and the sunroof motor

600 cca

well if it is white smoke and smells a little fishy, that is anti-freeze burning up so your head gasket mostlikely needs to be replace. but if it is a blueish white smoke that is oil being burn and that mean that you need to change your oil. if you have been changing you oil normally and it is giving you that then that means your pistion rings are worren. if you don't want to replace them you could put a heavier oil in like if normally you use 10w-30 you could put in 20w-50 in and that should help. worren pistion rings allow excess oil to get into the pistion chamber and that is why it burns it up, This should also be noticed by you oil level dropping faster then normal too.

The backlight bulbs are burnt out. Common on this model. Unfortunately, it is NOT an easy fix. You'll need to pull the dash cluster and replace the bulbs. It involves de-soldering the old bulbs and replacing with new. I have done this but it is very time consuming and you MIGHT damage the circuit board if you are not adept at micro-soldering. IF you do this, replace ALL the bulbs as others will slowly burn out. Replacement bulbs are NOT available thru GM. You'll need to go to a place like MCM Electronics or Top Bulb to get the correct one....There are businesses on-line that specialize in dash repair. GOOGLE to find them.. They ususally charge $100 for this service.

Inside the trans, you will need to remove the pan to replace it.

Check the fuse. If the fuse is good the Blower Motor Resistor Pack may be defective. Sorry I cannot tell you exactly where it is.

Ensure motor tune or other motor mechanical condition is not the cause of overheating, I assume the motor is actually running hot, - ensure the high gauge reading is not just a gauge sender problem. Check cooling fans are operating ok (as necessary when car warms up):- if not check
1) fuse,
2) relay operation,
3) heat sensor switch.

Check the coolant pressure cap is serviceable & of correct rating,
Ensure cooling system is correctly filled, bleed off any airlocks as necessary when re-filling,
Ensure radiator hose on suction side of waterpump is not collapsing at engine revs above idle (due softening),
If the motor has been severely overheated, the head gasket could be blown - look for combustion gas bubbles in the coolant resevoir.

If none of the above fix your problem, replace the thermostat again - it is not unheard of for a new thermostat to be faulty .

check the transmission fluid

The "Power Module " is bad, shorted. Its located on top of the blower motor housing at the firewall.

DISCONECT BATTERY LEADS FOR 10 MIN THEN RECONECT TO RESET ALARM.

pull of positive cable for a few minutes to reset it or take it to auto zone they will reset it for you.

no it not getting spark look for coil or other problem

thermostat, or you have ablockage in the system ,did you burp it?

Be sure to turn heater on full during filling. You can tell about air by pressure testing the system.

Also, you must that the correct type and volume of antifreeze or unit will not cool properly.

What. exactly do you mean by overheating? Boiling water out? Fans on too much...?

Doc

Unless this problem has been slowly creeping up on you, I'm going to say you need to look at the fuel pump too.

Under vehicle, driver side, below seating area, near fuel tank, mounted on frame rail in fuel line
Go to:
www.autozone.com

Get an account and use the repair manuals that they provide, will help you find things and give you good troubleshooting guides.

You can get plates without mileage - just check box for "in excess of mechanical limits" - there is a box you can check for something like that I believe - sounds like the control module ....Pricey and common failure...Sorry I couldn't help more,,,,

I assume you mean the compressor is locked up. Then yes, it is shot. If you want it fixed, take it to a repair shop. When the compressor is replaced, the dryer and the orifice tube must be replaced and the system flushed and evacuated. If all this isn't done, it will void the warranty on the compressor.

The clutch and it's bearing(s) should be separately replaceable.

It is possible that there was a problem which initiated the warning but is no longer present. There are several things that could cause this. Even a vary hot day with a lot of stop and go driving could be enough to give you that warning. It could also be that something is starting to fail, like a thermostat or temperature sensor.
It it really difficult to say without seeing the vehicle.
However I can tell you that 250 degrees is on the high side. The radiator fan should turn on around 225 and off at around 215. You can check your fan be lifting the hood and starting the car. When you see the fan turn on check the temp. Then give it a few minutes. The fan should turn back off. If it just runs nonstop that's a good indication it's running too hot.
Have you checked your coolant level? You should make sure it's full and if not check for any leaks under the car. Also make sure there are no obstructions to the air flow on the radiator grill such as leaves. If your coolant level is fine and you can't see any thing that would affect the air flow then it would be a good idea to have it checked out. At the very least have the codes read. Places like Auto Zone will check the error codes for free.
Also you should check for recalls on the coolantadiator system.I included a link where you can check through.
Hope this helps.


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