20 Most Recent 2002 Cadillac Sts - Page 5 Questions & Answers

you have a bad freeze plug

My driver heated seat does not work, neither hi or low setting. Also, the pulse windshield wiper does not work. I have rain sensor wiper system.

How to fix?

Yes Remove the carprt, the access is toward the front and a little to the right side. Plate held in place b 7mm screws. Thank you.

THE IDLE CONROL IS MOUNTED ON THE THROTTLE BODY AND CONTROLS THE IDLE SPEED WHEN FOOT IS OFF THE ACCELERATOR. BEFORE REPLACING ANY PARTS GET A CAN OF AERASOL CARB CLEANER REMOVE THE RUBBER TUBE THATCONNECTS TO ENGINE HOLD THROTTLE PLATE OPEN SPRAT CARD CLEANER ON SHOP RAG WIPE OFF THROTTLE PLATE AND INNER BORE OF THROTTLE BODY

There is an idle control valve that may be dirty or needs to be replaced. It is vacuum controlled and if it goes faulty it can cause the idle to be off. A leaky vacuum line anywhere in the car can do the same thing.

Sounds like the blender door is stuck. The rear, if it works ok, then the system is sufficiently charged.

Hello,
That noise would be a constant velocity joint gone bad. (Inner or outer) This is the drive axle. It will soon break apart and leave you stranded.
Needs to be replaced as soon as possible.
Wayne

it's either cloged on driver side or the little vaccum hose that controls it has a crac in it or has fallen off

There could be a blockage in a screen called an orifice tube in the liquid refrigerant line. The refrigerant may not be circulating properly and this can cause a pressure out of range (too high) which can kick off the compressor until the pressure is no longer out of range. Another possiblity is the compressor is nearing the end of its life and gets too "hot" and kicks off. I have seen some that would "smoke" from the clutch failing before any thermal limits would kick off the compressor, so I sort of doubt that's the issue. Another possiblity is a loose drive belt, but that would ordinarily present a belt noise (loud squeal). Another possiblity is the alternator is failing and cannot deliver sufficient current to run the electrical devices that kick on when the AC is running. A parts store can check that for you for free!

You need to have your tie rods checked out. Most of the time it will be your tie rods or your wheel bearings. You can replace your tires all day long, but it will not fix that problem.

hi, i sure hope you don't have this problem i'm going to describe to you, but you probably have a seeping head gasket. this would account for both of the conditions you speak of. the northstar 4.6 litre engine is an exellent engine, except for the fact that it uses an aluminum block with steel bolts to hold down the cylinder heads. after these vehicles run for many miles, the hot and cold operation of the engine causes the aluminum surrounding the head bolts to swell and contract and eventually will allow the head surface to warp, allowing coolant into the combustion chamber. you should take it to a shop and have a block test performed, this test uses a blue colored fluid which is sensative to combustion gases(hydro-carbons, carbon monoxide) and it will change color from blue to yellowish if the gases are present in the cooling system. but, if you have a constant misfire, chances are you will find coolant in the oil. check the dipstick and see if there is what looks like mocha coffee on it. this is the mixture of oil and coolant. if so, there is your sign of the problem. this repair is very expensive, so i hope you don't find this to be true.

You will need a OBD II scanner to erase the code from the ECM.

GOTO HOMELINK.COM

THEY MAKE THE SYSTEM AND HAVE INSTRUCTIONS YOU CAN DOWNLOAD.

PLEASE NOTE: NOT ALL BRANDS/MODELS OF OPENER WILL WORK WITH THIS SYSTEM.

HOPE THIS HELPS

you can't remove it but you can re-set the light

its part of the ever increasing safety features built into new and nicer cars like yours

I looked at all my cheat sheets to no avail
the only way to reset this light is with the use of a professional scan tool

Beneath the rear seat is the battery on the passenger side and a fuse box on the dirver's side. In the fuse box remove F15 for NAV wait ten seconds and then replace it. My dealer service rep was backed up and passed this easy one on to me.

Take it to a shop and have them check it out before you end up with worse problems and then it will cost more.If you know someone with mechanical abilities have them look under the hood.Could be something simple.Hope this helps.Good luck.

I have the same car and had the same issue, you will need to replace a wheel bearing hub assembly. The speed sensor is more than likely bad. I actually had the problem yesterday, and I replaced the hub today and it cost me $142.00 = tax for the repair. It's not hard to do, if you have the tools. Hope this helps

I have a 2001 Cadillac DHS. It is located under the back seat . You have to pull the seat portion up and out toward the back of the front seat. There are two litte black flat points about three inches wide that slip behind the back part of the rear seat backs. It is kind of like a up and out motion. The battery is large and heavy...you may have to take the seat completely out to get to the battery. If you have heated rear seats there is small connection you may need to disconnect to free up the seat for removal. Simple disconnect. It is a wire length connection on the rear passenger side close to the exit door threshold. The battery has a rubber type hold down ...but the the real securing point is the plastic block that is bolted down...you have to remove the block with a socket to release the battery completely. Seat goes back in that same motion just....slip the black points under the back of the seat and push back and then down.

First of all you need to check your coolant return bottle level, it's probably low, and needs coolant added. Heater will be starved for coolant, if level is low, thus, cool/cold air comes out. Try to add when engine is cool, to avoid getting sprayed with hot coolant. Leave cap off for a while, turn your heater on (not defrost) and let engine run up to temperature, and add more as needed while you watch level. Rev engine slightly and hold it for 5 seconds or so, every once in a while to help circulate coolant, and remove any air in system. If you have an actual rad cap, that you can remove and watch flow in radiator, that's even better, for adding and bleeding air out same way. Make sure your rad fan is working as well, and once you get it topped up, and heat back working, I'd seriously consider having a system pressure test done, as you obviously have a leak somewhere if the level went down to the point of overheating, and heater was starved for coolant. Keep an eye on that return bottle level until such time you have it checked, to avoid more damage to engine.