20 Most Recent 2002 Cadillac Sts - Page 4 Questions & Answers

we see this all the time, in order to repair the problem you will have to remove the transmission, but you don't have to repair it, the car will still run just fine.

what the TCC is, is a lock up torque converter when the engine is over a certain temperature and the car is at cruse and not under any type of load, the on-board computer opes a passage inside the transmission that allowes fluid pressure to apply a lock up clutch inside the torque converter, what this does is make a solid direct link between the engine and transmission, witch will allow the engine to operate at a slightly lower RPM around 300 RPM and this will give you slightly better fuel mileage around 2 more miles to the gallon.

if you don't repair the problem the engine will run at a slightly higher RMP and get a little less fuel millage, but the car will run just fine.

this is a common problem and we see most owners not fix the problem and just ignore the light or cover it up.

so don't panic, you are just one of many who have this problem and although it would cost around $1,000-$1,400 to repair the problem, you don't have to repair if you don't want to.

Good luck, and let me know if there is any thing else you need.

Did your check engine light come on.
From what your explaining it sounds like you have an engine loop.
Most likely your EGR is failing.Give more info if you can.
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yes

Crankshaft Position Sensor Engine speed is a very important input to the Engine Management System (EMS). Crankshaft speed and position are the basis for many calculations made by the computer. Crankshaft position values are transmitted to the computer by pickup coils also known as Permanent Magnet (P/M) generators, hall-effect sensors or optical sensors. The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) also known as engine speed sensor is located in close proximity to the crankshaft.
In addition, the EMS uses minute variations in the CKP sensor data to determine engine misfire. The EMS uses this information in conjunction with the camshaft position sensor to perform misfire diagnostics.
Related Symptoms No Start / Intermittent Start Condition - Can be caused by a faulty crankshaft position sensor due to loose connections, bad grounds, high resistance in the circuit, or opens in the circuit.
NOTE: For procedures on the position sensors, please refer to Driveability and Emissions.
Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section
2. Raise and support the vehicle
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Air deflector
   • Oil filter adaptor
     
     
   • CKP sensor electrical connector
   • CKP sensor retaining bolt
   • CKP sensor

To Install:

1. Lubricate the CKP sensor O-Ring with clean engine oil
2. Install or connect the following:
   • CKP sensor and the retaining bolt
     1. Torque to: 89 lb-in. (10 Nm)
   • CKP sensor electrical connector
   • Oil filter adaptor
   • Air deflector
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Operate the engine then inspect the CKP sensor for engine oil leaks.
5. Perform the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure.
6. Test drive the vehicle.

If the radio was draining the battery, replace it with a new one from a salvage yard for the best price. Or replace with one that is aftermarket that has newer features, assuming you can find one that fits into the console.

there is no switch as such .its done by connecting to your obd connector.

under the rear passenger seat- pull up on the base of the rear cushion

They don't use anything in common except the controls and the engine coolant in the heater cores. The car is old enough that the blower fan motor is just worn out and needs a new one. I'd try turning it on and wrapping on the motor even a warn out one if vebrated might come on. The blower control module is a failing peice and is quite expensive. If it did fail tough is because the blower motor as it wears out draws more power and the fan blade itself accumulates dirt and makes the motor draw more to turn the heavier fan. I'd test for power and ground right at the motor. I'd also just run a wire to it and see if it'll run. With the key on thiers power to the motor though the blower relay and the controller turns on the ground. You might find that the powers their but the ground is'nt. Put a ground jumper to it and see it run and if and amp meter says it's drawing less that 10 Amps let it run for awhile and see if the Amo draw rises as the motor as it warms up may get tight and draw more power after it's had time to warm up. GM heater motors have been doing this for a long time and it's nothing new. The wire connectors are suspect everwhere theirs a connection as the connectors heat up over time and fail. Once the problem is corrected and you paid the big money( maybe) change the blower motor so it doesn't happen again soon.

Change the engine temperature coolant sensor. Good Luck.

replace blower motor resistor

The Radio has a hot feed directly from fuse #25 in under left side dash near kick panel fuse box .. also check fuses #14 and #9 .. it is not controlled by any computer module, it could be a burnt out wire ?


The interior lights and door locks/alarm are controlled by the ETAC module .. which also gets its hot feed from fuse # 25 .. but the ETAC module controls lots of other devices including Wiper/defogger/fog light/door warning switch/chime bells etc. etc. and these are working ? it is possible the ETAC module is damaged internally

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

A dealer should be able to reset this for you, if you can get the code from it and call them, although they might charge you not sure how much but it is usually pretty cheap.

Also many ebayers sell these codes again you just need to send them the number from the dies of it.
Regards
Dan

Why would you ask that?
Have you looked for it?
If you ever find an oil drain plug, anywhere other than on the side of an oil pan,near the bottom I'll buy you lunch

It sounds as though your fluid is burnt
I would like to tell you,if you flushed it with new fluid,you would be good to go,but burnt fluid is the result of some kind of damage, that has to be corrected.
The pump my have gone bad,but what concerns me, is that the black fluid,will most certainly take out the steering rack.
When the fluid is burnt,you lost the ability to remove heat. ( I hope you do your trans fluid every 30,000 miles,I used to own a trans repair shop,as well as P/S Fluid)
The growling ,is either a bad pump,a pump under pressure,because the rack is shot and stiff,or now both.
Tip--Install a magnetic inline power steering filter,on the return line, after cooler and before pump,after you replace parts and absolutely have to flush out the burnt fluid and debris you now got.

The fault you're indicating is common to all those systems and maybe just one defective sensor....You can drive it in that condition but get it on a scan tool as quickly as you can, and get the fault rectified.... Regards Johngee10

Hello: You have a upper and lower oil pan. To remove either one you have to either remove the engine or remove the transmission. It is a complex job.

Start with the simple and inspect your fuse to your heated seat. There is a good chance that they are bad and will need to be replaced. Start with that and keep us posted and we can go from there.

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