20 Most Recent 1991 Acura Integra Hatchback Questions & Answers

Idle is controlled by two main sensors: the FITV and the IACV. The FITV is a mechanical valve that is controlled by coolant temperature (there is no ECU plug to it). When the coolant is cold, the valve is open and letting air into the Intake Manifold through a hole in the Throttle Body above the throttle plate. This creates a small vacuum leak which in turn lets the motor idle higher than normal (supposed to be above 1K RPM for warming up). As the coolant warms up the valve closes and no longer lets air in through the hole in the throttle body. From this point the IACV, which is Engine Control Unit controlled, is letting small amounts of air into the Intake Manifold through another hole in the Throttle Body. Any amount of extra air the ECU is not expecting will confuse it and you will get either a high idle or a roaming/hunting/fluctuating idle. The principal of engine to operate is a need to have a Fuel : Air ratio of 14.6:1. You smell the gas after restart since the unburnt gas, when the engine dies, got pushed out through the exhaust manifold.
Th following are in order one after the other until it fix problem.
1- Find and replace the vacuum leak on hoses mentioned above.
2- Clean the the gunk built up at holes mentioned above.
3- Replace thermal valve at engine block identified by two vacuum hoses connecting to the Throttle Body.
Good luck.

Ed, This could get ugly but here is a link that should help you figure out what your check light is telling you.....Also to reset this light, Google " how to reset a check light on a 97 integra" here's the link to figure out what it means: http://www.modifiedlife.com/how-to-diagnose-a-check-engine-light-on-1997-acura-integra/

It may be a slipping belt. Spray a mist of WATER on each belt and see if the sound changes. Belt may be loose or one of the belt driven devices locking up.

A starter under load demands a lot of current and what you describe indicates something intermittently deprives the starter of current preventing it from working as it should. A guy once brought me a car with a similar problem that had been in half the repairers in town and had cost a fortune with no result. The fault turned out to be a bad/dirty connection inside the crimp between the battery cable and the battery terminal. There was no external evidence of this and it was only possible to see what had happened after sectioning it with a hacksaw. Often it is the ground connections or leads that cause problems but this time it was the supply. Monitoring the voltages (under load) is the key to a diagnosis. Checking for volt drops along individual leads, cranking for 10 seconds with the ignition disabled and checking for connections that become hot...

I doubt you can buy the parts to rebuild the alternator. Take it off and have it tested at your local parts store. If it's bad, ask them what options they offer.

Is the check engine light on? If so, get codes and post them. Sounds like cat. converter is stopped up. Engine can't breathe when this happens.

read the fault codes to determine the fault area

Check this website, you should find this information there. Acura Integra 1991 1993 wiring diagrams fuse block

On this website, you find belt diagram for Acura Integra (1992 - 1993) Acura Integra 1992 1993 wiring diagrams seat belt

In my experience by far Ebay Motors is your best source for a specific model like this.

A old or defective battery can make the alternator run at a high load condition,as it is running everything the vehicle requires electrically, and then may have work overly hard to try and keep a defective battery fully charged too.They will only last so long running at close to full output.

SOUNDS LIKE STARTER CABLES ARE IN NEED OF CLEAN AND TIGHTEN AND SOLENOID STICKING. NEXT TIME IT HAPPENS GIVE THE SOLENOID A FEW TAPS WITH A HAMMER IF POSS AND TRY AGAIN

cranking over is a good thing does the 1991 have a crank angle sensor chase back to coil if no spark at the plugs if EFI could be fuel pump or fuel delivery at the injectors check if the efi has a designated fuse in the engine bay cluster

S, possible safety neutral switch defective/needing adjustment. Have a good tech. check, diagnose and estimate repair. "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

The daytime running lights work off the high beams. They shouldn't be blowing bulbs unless there is a charging system problem causing the voltage to be unregulated. If this were the case, other bulbs would burn out as well. The most likely cause is a defective daytime running light module failure. The module is grey and is located under the dash on the drivers side up to the left. It has a single plug with4-6 wires.

is the blower running? if it is, you will hear it trying to work and you have an airflow problem. If it is not, you have a bad blower or an electrical problem.

Check for voltage at the connector. If voltage is present, you have a loose connection or broken defroster elements. If no voltage is present, you have a blown fuse or bad switch or wiring. A proper diagnosis is in order.