2002 Subaru Outback - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

there is nothing the shop did the that caused this they do that because of the heat inside the car sitting out in the sun

Your pump has gone out...common on these cars
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

TRY CHECKING THE TERMINAL CABLES ON THE BATTERY SEE IF THEY ARE LOOSE OR NEED A GOOD CLEANING OR CHECK FOR ANY LOOSE FUSES AT THE FUSE BOX OR ANY CORROSION ON THE END OF FUSES.

check for vaccum leaks, gasket leaks, injector leaks! and test coil packs to see if module is good and you get spark to every cylinder and see if you get fuel to every cylinder.
How many miles do you have? Is the motor tired?

check the timing belt and yes fuel pump could fail.

o2 sensors
change to super unlead only

Check to see if the belt has broken.There maybe more than one more than likley the a/c and p/s are on the same belt.

if its all wheel drive, you will have CV joints in the front. if the boots on the cv joints are damaged, torn ripped etc, then dust and debris will have entered into the cv joint and wreak all types of havoc on the bearing. To test, go into a parking lot and at slow speed....20km, 10 mi/hr turn sharp to one direction and listen to see if the noise becomes apparent = will be grinding or clunking. this is the result of the bearing wearing a groove in the cv bearing housing and when you turn sharply, the bearings do in and out of this groove, causing you to here a clunking sound. also, it should do this wether it is hot or cold = not temperature dependant

You've got to assume that the trans oil change is unrelated. With the key in the run position see if the wipers work, if not the battery is dead. Otherwise, try rocking the car back and forth while in park and then hope for a miracle. If all fails, get out the volt meter and start measuring voltages at the starter and the power pack (coil).

have a shop inspect the brakes

First you should drive over to your auto parts store and have them tell you what codes come up so I can be of better help. AutoZone and Advance both do this for free. I don't want to give poor info, or offend your repair person before knowing what codes come up. Just let me know and I will se if I can help you. Have a good day.

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Look at your fan. You either have a weak fan clutch or if its electric you have an electrical fan problem. You need to see if the fan is running strong when it overheats. I am assuming you have checked your coolant.

timing belt jumped cog or two. replace belt.

You will need to remove the plastic vent to access the motor. The motor should be held in by 2 or 3 bolts.

If the motor turns and wiper doesn't, that means the motor shaft is stripped and you will have to pull arm off shaft and use JB Weld and place on shaft , than replace arm and let dry for a day. OR replace motor.

Unfortunately, you will have to remove the panel of the door, Use flathead screwdriver to pry open. It is very likely the spring fell off.

Could be tie rods,bearings, cv joint. or just need fluid in the power steering. I have even had a brake stick just enough to cause a vibration.

THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR IS RESPONSIBLE FOR SPARK, AND SHOULD BE REPLACED IF IT HAS AN INTERMITTENT SIGNAL WHICH IN THIS CASE IS CAUSING A LATE SPARK SIGNAL AND ALLOWING THE CYLINDERS TO LOAD UP WITH FUEL AND DELAYED IGNITION. HOPE THIS HELPS TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM. GOOD LUCK.

It's an easy fix.. well replacing the pads anyway.

Both seat heaters in this car are on the same fuse and relay. If one is working and the other is not, you can assume that the fuse and relay are okay. It could either be a broken circuit in the seat heater itself or a bad switch. Most likely it is a break in the heater element. I had this problem in my 2004 forester on the driver side. after removing the upholstry cover on the seat and some careful inspection I found two broken solder joints at each thermostat in the seat heater element. A quick solder job fixed the problem. The only real difficulty on the job was that the thermostats and associated connections are sandwiched between two layers of fabric and filled with hot glue. Careful probing with the end of a soldering iron can melt the hot glue away from the areas you need access to. A quick internet search will find you some pretty good directions on how to remove the seat covers. Hope this helps.