2002 Subaru Outback - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

For some reason my 2002 does the same thing. Do you by chance park on an inclined driveway, because we do and setting it in Park with that extra tension may be causing this. If you do park on an incline, as we do, pull in and when you put on the brake keep it down while you set the parking break, so no tension is on the transmission, then move the lever to park. Hope this helps!

P0420 SUBARU - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Thresholdhttp://engine-codes.com/p0420_subaru.htmlForum CodePossible causes- Three way catalyst converter Bank 1 - Exhaust tube - Intake air leaks - Fuel injectors may be faulty - Fuel injector leaks - Spark plugs may be faulty - Improper ignition timing - Engine Control Module (ECM) Tech notes The most common cause is the three way catalytic converter Bank 1 is worn out. Changing just the catalyst O2 sensor usually does not repair the problem. If the P0420 code is combined with other codes, try fixing the other codes first.

The code is a popular one which means the catalytic converter is not up to its best performance. The computer uses the front and rear O2 sensors to monitor the activity of the converter. The problem could be the converter, one of the sensors, or something in the engine.

I had the same problem with my 2001 Forester. Try this as a low-cost and easy repair attempt: buy brand new fuses and replace both L/H and R/H fuses. If one of your fuses is marginal, your headlights will exhibit this problem. Replacing my headlight fuses with brand new ones solved my situation.

Wait for it to come back home, then disconnect the car battery, jack up the car, remove all the wiring to the starter, remove the two bolts holding it on. Reverse the procedure to install thr replacement.

Now a fan that is not spinning will happen for one of 3 reasons.

1. The temperature sensor is bad. Just simply replace it and see if it works with a new sensor.
2. The fan is not getting electricity or enough electricity
3. The fan itself is dead

A fan dying because of the electric is generally simple to fix. Check all of your fan relays and make sure that they are working. MOST cars I can not be certain with the Subaru have 2 relays that control the fan. One of them controls a low speed (idle, colder weather) the other controls the High speed (Hot days, High Speed, Extended Idle, Air Conditioner). Now while both of them going out at the same time is rather improbable it is possible. more than likely one of them died and it is stopping the other from functioning properly. The easiest test is to have someone stand with their ear next to the relay and listen to it. The low one should pop almost as soon as the car is running. The easy way to get the other to click is to turn on the AC for a minute (will pop high speed breaker and increase idle). Now if one pop'ed and the other did not you know which is faulty. See below for precise way to test. Now if both pop'ed or neither pop'ed it is down to a volt test, Do you have a volt meter? if the answer is yes your in luck if not i would borrow one from a friend or get one from the store (not the auto parts store they are over priced generally) With the volt meter i would stick the testers into the plug for the fan. See how much power it is getting. 12 volts? Good if not you are loosing voltage and there is not enough power to spin the fan. See bellow for Answer to voltage problems.RELAY TESTINGNow after you get them out the problem then becomes testing them, sometimes on rare occasion a parts store can test them for you and give you a positive or negative. The other path is more painful and requires a 12v battery and a volt meter. Schematics for the relay are fairly common generally the parts store will be able to look it up for you or sometimes it is even on the stock relay (If neither of these are true then ask to look at a new relay they almost ALWAYS have the diagram on them) this diagram you will want to check and make sure that it makes sense withhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8y_fKEAM... go about a minute into the video. This is a video to test a relay. you basically want to make sure that everything he says is happening within the relay. Putting 12V across the battery and ground sides and making sure you have continuity between the 2 other pins.(If you do not have a volt meter but happen to have a relay tester with a light you can simply use that on the 2 connecting sides as these measure continuity as well.)VOLTAGEIF you are not getting 12v at the fan connector it is necessary to determine where the voltage drop is occurring. The first place to check is where the relay plugs in. if there is 12 volts there just follow it up until you get to the battery. If all of this checks out I would check the alternator though i doubt that would be a problem because you would have dimmer lights, lack of power, poor or no AC..... many other problems

On the 2002, head gaskets were the subject of a recall. They can go bad almost anytime, usually after 30k, but a good mechanic can take care of it, especially if they torque the mounting bolts properly, but it can take a good number of mechanic hours and cost. The timing belt needs replacing around 100k along with associated parts, a cost you can get quoted. The Outback is a nice car and runs very well if maintained.

I concur with anon263. When we replaced driver-side axle with an aftermarket one, the vibration was horrible. Most people around me would not believe that was the cause, but as soon as we replaced it with a Subaru OEM rebuilt axle, the vibration disappeared. Get a new one from Subaru if you can afford it. Here's hoping the rebuilt one will last, although some out there have said that it may cause other problems down the line, most likely just because it won't last as long as a new one. The aftermarket axles, with exception of MW, are off just enough in their designs and spline size to allow harmonic vibration to transfer from the engine to the wheel and then your steering wheel when you are stopped at a stop sign and still in gear. The vibration usually goes away when you put it in neutral or park. In my case, I even thought I detected some strange vibration when driving.

This is a common problem with the rubber fuel lines on the injector rails and the lines coming to and from the fuel filter that is attached to the driver side strut tower. Tighten the clamps as far as you can. If that doesn't fix / stop the leaks, you may need to check hoses one by one and maybe replace hoses that are soft or brittle or not tightening properly. There may be a Subaru recall on the fuel injection rail connections, in which case the fix is free. If not, high-pressure fuel line hose isn't expensive if from a parts store. This problem usually shows up when it gets real cold outside, like 10 degrees or colder.

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You will have to find out if there is any voltage at that window switch. It may entail taking oof the door panel to get to the switch. I presume that all the windows can be opened from the driver door. Then the problem must be in that door.

the greel is part of the hood it pops up an the latch is under the edge of the greel

Possibly a bad strut alowing the tire to bounce that is only happening under certain driving conditions. May also have the tires checked, one may have a fat spot or knot on it that worsens as the tire gets warmer after driving it for a while. Hope this inforamtion is useful to you. Good Luck!

your alternator isn't charging the battery enough ,, clean and tighten all battery connections, clean the posts ,, , there have been times when I've purchased a new battery it just wasn't up to par,, take it back,, have them load check the battery , this will tell you if the battery has a bad cell in it, if it does,, have them replace the one you bought, once you have a known good battery installed in your car,, start the motor and with a multimeter test the battery posts,, Place the Positive on the + side of the battery , and the neg - lead on the battery, with the motor running, you should get a reading of 13.5-14.5 volts, if your getting less than that first reading, your alternator is shot and will need to be replaced

REPLACE AIR FILTER.CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS,CHECK TIRE PRESSURE.LOW TIRE PRESSURE WILL CAUSE LOT OF FUEL CONSUMPTION.CITY DRIVING WILL BURN LOT MORE GAS,STOPPING VECHICLE THEN GOING WILL CAUSE MORE GAS BURNING, YOU NEED POWER AND FUEL TO GET VECHICLE IN MOTION,BY IT BEING HOT WEATHER, USING AIR CONDITIONING TO KEEP COOL INSIDE WILL CAUSE MORE FUEL CONSUMPTION.

the easiest thing to do is to locate a dealer for that vehicle, go to the parts dept, and they can give you a breakdown page of the removal and install, and if you ask for the print out, its usually free.

the clicking is just the unit cycling most the time, getting the Freon recharged could help with your problem and ease up on the cycling, the fans are on sensors and relays , and at times they do turn off when not needed,

Under hood, driver side, rear side of strut tower, mounted on side of frame rail in fuel line


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If i understood correctly, the car seemed that it wants to circle or turn around when you change terrain. It would be best to do first a visual inspection underneath the car. Since this is all wheel drive you need to inspect the rear as well. Look for signs such as physical damage or leaks underneath. If you can move the drive shafts (shafts that are connected to the wheel that turns it) see if there is play there as well as the wheel. If it is not the linkages or shafts that are the issue it could be the sensors. Each shell should have sensors that detects wheel movement for correct transfer of torque. It may have come loose or may have been damaged. The best way to test it is to use a voltmeter and jack the car up and test if there is voltage when you spin the wheels.

Could be the Idle Control Valve?