20 Most Recent 2002 Subaru Outback - Page 6 Questions & Answers

On the 2002, head gaskets were the subject of a recall. They can go bad almost anytime, usually after 30k, but a good mechanic can take care of it, especially if they torque the mounting bolts properly, but it can take a good number of mechanic hours and cost. The timing belt needs replacing around 100k along with associated parts, a cost you can get quoted. The Outback is a nice car and runs very well if maintained.

I concur with anon263. When we replaced driver-side axle with an aftermarket one, the vibration was horrible. Most people around me would not believe that was the cause, but as soon as we replaced it with a Subaru OEM rebuilt axle, the vibration disappeared. Get a new one from Subaru if you can afford it. Here's hoping the rebuilt one will last, although some out there have said that it may cause other problems down the line, most likely just because it won't last as long as a new one. The aftermarket axles, with exception of MW, are off just enough in their designs and spline size to allow harmonic vibration to transfer from the engine to the wheel and then your steering wheel when you are stopped at a stop sign and still in gear. The vibration usually goes away when you put it in neutral or park. In my case, I even thought I detected some strange vibration when driving.

This is a common problem with the rubber fuel lines on the injector rails and the lines coming to and from the fuel filter that is attached to the driver side strut tower. Tighten the clamps as far as you can. If that doesn't fix / stop the leaks, you may need to check hoses one by one and maybe replace hoses that are soft or brittle or not tightening properly. There may be a Subaru recall on the fuel injection rail connections, in which case the fix is free. If not, high-pressure fuel line hose isn't expensive if from a parts store. This problem usually shows up when it gets real cold outside, like 10 degrees or colder.

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Hi no there shouldnt be any vibration at all id say something is not tightened or aligned properly

You will have to find out if there is any voltage at that window switch. It may entail taking oof the door panel to get to the switch. I presume that all the windows can be opened from the driver door. Then the problem must be in that door.

the greel is part of the hood it pops up an the latch is under the edge of the greel

Possibly a bad strut alowing the tire to bounce that is only happening under certain driving conditions. May also have the tires checked, one may have a fat spot or knot on it that worsens as the tire gets warmer after driving it for a while. Hope this inforamtion is useful to you. Good Luck!

your alternator isn't charging the battery enough ,, clean and tighten all battery connections, clean the posts ,, , there have been times when I've purchased a new battery it just wasn't up to par,, take it back,, have them load check the battery , this will tell you if the battery has a bad cell in it, if it does,, have them replace the one you bought, once you have a known good battery installed in your car,, start the motor and with a multimeter test the battery posts,, Place the Positive on the + side of the battery , and the neg - lead on the battery, with the motor running, you should get a reading of 13.5-14.5 volts, if your getting less than that first reading, your alternator is shot and will need to be replaced

REPLACE AIR FILTER.CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS,CHECK TIRE PRESSURE.LOW TIRE PRESSURE WILL CAUSE LOT OF FUEL CONSUMPTION.CITY DRIVING WILL BURN LOT MORE GAS,STOPPING VECHICLE THEN GOING WILL CAUSE MORE GAS BURNING, YOU NEED POWER AND FUEL TO GET VECHICLE IN MOTION,BY IT BEING HOT WEATHER, USING AIR CONDITIONING TO KEEP COOL INSIDE WILL CAUSE MORE FUEL CONSUMPTION.

the easiest thing to do is to locate a dealer for that vehicle, go to the parts dept, and they can give you a breakdown page of the removal and install, and if you ask for the print out, its usually free.