2000 Subaru Outback - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

What kind of trouble are you talking about ? You need to be more precise about the problem if you want information

Click on the following direct Link. It has several Diagrams for your Timing Belt, including the Marks.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2000/make/subaru/model/outback/2000_subaru_outback_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

check fuses and then relays

be very careful this is an interference engine if you are changing it because of issues with performance ,chances are valves are bent already.it is recommended you change the idler pulleys as well and tensioner .if your valves are damaged it is a twelve hour job to remove and replace head gaskets and valves its easier to replace the engine and costs less.

hope this helps

small needle just poke it

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
• There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.

Possible Solutions Possible solutions include:

• In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
• Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
• Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

Usually the cause of P0130 is a bad oxygen sensor
, however this isn't always the case. If your o2 sensors haven't been replaced and they are old, it's a good bet that the sensor is the problem. But, It could be caused by any of the following:

• Water or corrosion in the connector
• Loose terminals in the connector
• Wiring burnt on exhaust components
• Open or short in the wiring due to rubbing on engine components
• Holes in exhaust allowing unmetered oxygen into exhaust system
• Unmetered vacuum leak at the engine
• Bad o2 sensor
• Bad PCM

Possible Solutions Using a scan tool, determine if the Bank 1, sensor 1 is switching properly. It should switch rapidly between rich and lean, evenly.
1. If it does, the problem is likely intermittent and you should examine the wiring for any visible damage. Then perform a wiggle test by manipulating the connector and wiring while watching the o2 sensor voltage. If it drops out, fix the appropriate part of the wiring harness where problem resides.
2. If it doesn\'t switch properly, try to determine if the sensor is accurately reading the exhaust or not. Do this by removing the fuel pressure regulator vacuum supply briefly. The o2 sensor reading should go rich, reacting to the extra fuel added. Reinstall regulator supply. Then induce a lean condition by removing a vacuum supply line from the intake manifold. The o2 sensor reading should go lean, reacting to the enleaned exhaust. If the sensor operates properly, then the sensor may be okay and the problem may be holes in the exhaust or an unmetered vacuum leak in the engine (NOTE: Unmetered vacuum leaks at the engine are almost always accompanied by lean codes. Refer to the appropriate articles for diagnosing an unmetered vacuum leak). If the exhaust does have holes in it, it's possible that the o2 sensor may be misreading the exhaust because of the extra oxygen entering the pipe via those holes

I do not know for sure if this is the problem you are having, But, I have noticed that from 95 up to 2002 I have seen a lot of PO420 codes that have been just the sensor. I do not know if it was a weak sensor or just that program telling it that it is below threshold. I did notice that if the vehicles are run for a long trip at highway speed it goes out. I wish you luck and have a great day.

check your manual under security system. i think there is a way to disable it. on some outbacks there is a plug in the drivers kick panel that when unpluged the secutiy system will disable. but keyless enrty will still work

It is Just a bulb. Open bonnet next to the radiator on each respective side is the wires to your headlight bulb. Very straight forward and easy to remove and replace. Good luck and have a great day.

how to disassembly rack and pinion

Your mixer door on your heater isn't closing the outside air flow properly. Although, there is probably a leak test that should be done on the fuel.

renew the mechanism

Sounds like Coil packs are not sparking correctly remove rubbers and check for cracks.

Try changing the plugs you did not specify if it had a tune up or not, next would be a fuel filter both of these you can do yourself at a relative cheep cost, id the check engine light come on? let me know if you have checked these, also you could of got bad gas.

there are three belts, depending on which belt just loosen tensioner center bolt then loosen adjusting bolt that runs behind tensioner pully, reverse order to tighten new belt, all belts are done the same.

Sounds like an internal leak in the master cylinder, an external brake fluid leak (such as a leaking brake line), or extreme misadjustment or binding of the calipers or drums. Any could be the case, and you can eliminate the last 2 rather easily. Do you see any sign of fluid coming from any of the brake lines? If not, move to adjustments. Check the calipers for bound up caliper pins and if equiped with rear drum brakes, the adjustment and condition of the rear shoes. After that, go right for the throat and replace the master cylinder. Be sure to bench bleed it before you install it, and if you have ABS, make sure you also bleed the ABS system, OR if you can't bleed the ABS system have the new master cylinder ready to install, and remove the brake lines as quickly as possible from the old master and have a friend hold thier fingers over the ends of the lines. I do this quite a bit at my shop, and it's VERY rare that I actualy need to bleed the ABS after replacing a master cylinder if little to no air gets in the brake lines.

Check and see if the belt is rubbing with any other thing.Also if there is any adjustable belt tensioner then it may needs replacing.Also it could may well be that the belt was not of good quality.Hope this helps.

check that the ground wire is connected to ground. You can test the switch with an ohmmeter in the ohm position to see if it's good. You can test power to the switch from the battery or fuse, or whatever power source you are using.

that code is saying you have a problem with that system. if you go to autozone thay can print that code out for that tells you what to check. other then that you may need to get it diagnosed by a professional