2000 Subaru Outback - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Your 2002 outback has two cooling fans mounted on the radiator, one cooling fan runs only when the engine requires cooling and the other fan only comes on when the A/C is in use or if the engine temp requires extra cooling. The A/C cooling fan should come on almost at the same time when the A/C has been turned on (if the car is up to operating temp), if it is not coming on you will not move enough air through the condenser to remove the heat the A/C coolant (freon) has collected from inside the cabin. Check your fans operation.

P0420....Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

After a good deal of research and several shops suggesting a rebuild of the transmission, I decided to have the trans fluid and filters changed before doing anything. It was a tough call because it could have been a waste of $125. As soon as the spin off filter was removed you could see it was blocked. So the hydraulic pressure in the system was way down, still enough to engage reverse and enough to work all the shifts, but not enough to engage forward without a slight tap on the accelerator.

My Subaru has 240 000 km on it and I suppose the clutch pack rebuild wouldn't hurt, but as it is now it engages quickly and shifts up are noticeably smoother.

May not be the solution for every case, but it solved my situation.

depends on what code readings you are getting....some auto parts stores will connect a diagnositc computer to your car and tell you for free what codes the system is tellg you...however they wont provide diagnosis for you.,..so when you get the codes...come back and tell us and provide more info on how the car is behaving and we can provide some problematic diagnosis that you can base your decision to repair/replace

check fuel pressure and mass air meter

I have this same vehicle. The "check engine" light warns you that the input from a sensor is not valid. To locate the problem sensor you need to have the fault codes downloaded and interpreted. I am sure your PCV has little to do with this. The burning smell cold be oil from your transaxle seals being thrown up onto the exhaust pipes. The outback is a sophistecated and refined vehicle that requires sophisticated equipment to work on it. If you have engine "knocking" it is likely to be the knock sensor and if this is the case, you need to have it remedied very quickly

if you have service/warranty book in your vehicle it tells you what needs to be done at each service,the book I am referring to is the one that the place where you get your car serviced stamp it & remove the page, it has the service intervals in mnths. & miles,failing that ask the service people what needs to be done at the milage of the service you require.....hope this helps.....cheers

some cars have a check valve in the transmission line up by the radiator. if you have one get rid of it. they can quit working and cause the transmission to overheat. the sensor for the temp light is in the solenoid package and is not replacable. you have to replace the whole package. have the temperture checked at a shop if its not overheating then I would'nt replace it until something else dies these solenoid packages are expensive

Is it a lift back or window and tail gate? Either way, there is a little hole on the inside for the escape hatch. Take a small pin, wire, coat hanger, push it straight in, it should pop the window, door, whichever, might be a small button over the hole, that way you can get the door lock fixed without smashing the lock off. I never tried mine , but I know all cars have them now. Check it out.

Unfortunately there is really no "trick" to make it any easier. You just need patience. Make sure you are supporting all of the converters weight while trying to seat it. Tilting it slightly in different directions can help it find its grooves. Also a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the tips of the spline teeth can help a lot. Trying to force it or use pressure will not help. In fact ti will damage the teeth on the spline and then your in for big $$$. If you know it is starting to slide down the spline then stopping just before it seats then it is most likely that you are holding it just a little crooked and the tip of the spline, part with no teeth, is not seating in side the converter. Just wiggle and jiggle until she drops in just don't force it.

If you have a problem with the key as well it may be the transmission linkage.

Check the alternator out put,check it at the battery,with the headlights on,and the ac on high blower,the volts should read 13.65 volts to 14.25 volts,no lower,if it is replace the alternator.

if it is on full lock then it is the ball joint

This is very common. The hinge on the handle gets dirty and rusty and it does not return all the way. Push the handle all the way to the return position then unlock. It should open then. I use WD-40 on the hinges of the handle every 2 months to keep it free. Hope this helps and have a great day.

It does sound like a clutch, but deserves to be more thouroughly checked out, Does the clutch pedal feel normal? is there a little free-travel at the top of the pedal stroke? do you see oil dripping under the car?
Clutches usually go out slowly, they start to slip under heavey load first, then gradually slip even under light loads in low gears. If an axle was loose, it could have spun in it's hub, with the hood open ans an observerstanding beside the car looking down at the axles, slowly let the clutch out (engine running, in reverse gear, ) being careful not to hit your assistant, if the axles turn- one of them, but the wheel doesn't this is your problem. If the axles don't turn with the clutch out, and engine still revs, well it's time for a clutch or transmission, Good luck, hoe this helps

Replace the plug wires and plugs and inspect the old parts for cracks and corrosion(wires) and carbon deposits(plugs). Inspecting the air filter (replace if necessary) and replacing the fuel filter may help also.

bad sensor button maybe

low fluid or needs new PS pump

before you start taking stuff apart, make sure that the knock sensor is bad and not the wires. test for ground and continuity on the signal wire from the sensor connector to the pin on the pcm connector. google "testing knock sensor" for more info

This problem could only be diagnosed is by downloading he fault codes from the transmission control module (TCM) you need to go to your Subaru dealer. I have access to the codes, but you need to know what codes are grenerated by your transmission.