1994 Subaru Loyale - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

i think its under the glove compartment.

Hello
Please make sure you are doing the OBD1 fault code retrieval test correctly, there is no code 7, all fault code for the OBD1 system are two digit. Here is a link to the code retrieval procedure and the codes which are listed at the bottom of the page.
http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Subaru%20OBD1%20Decoder.htm

hi sounds like the throttle position sensor is playing up best way is get it tested by an auto electrician

very important to have proper coolant solution.50/50..too much antifreeze will make heater act up.antifreeze tester will eliminate that.warm engine and check both heater hose if they are the same tempature.if not remove both hoses and garden hose through the
heater core to flush both ways.try not to disturb the heat core and remove hoses where they connect to the engine.let me know if that helps

The best way is to take the belt off and use a chain wrench. If you don't have a chain wrench, then leave the belt on and put a screwdriver on the side of the belt so when you loosen the bolts it puts tension on the screwdriver. This will help hold the pulley from turning.

Sounds like you might have a fuel delivery problem, being it tried to start up after you gave a shot of starting fluid tells me theres probably a no fuel pressure issue with it, check the fuel pump fuse and relay and make sure they all check out fine, if they all appear to be good theres a good chance that you have a faulty fuel pump and will require the fuel tank be removed to access the fuel pump for further inspection....

I dont think you can hurt it. But the timing marks have to be perfect. So double check your work.

could be air intake problem. check for vacume line loose or air filter needs changed. maybe fuel filter.

no your temperature sensor is broken. thats what gives the gauge the reading. you may need a thermostat for different reasons. did you know why the car overheated?

The first step to diagnose your problem is to read the fault code(s) from the computer. The larger auto part chain stores will often do this for free. From this, you can determine which sensor is failing.

A broken sensor could be all or just part of the mpg problem. Other causes, which you can investigate after clarifying the check engine light include frozen brake caliper/drum, leak in fuel tank/hose, worn distributor cap/rotor, and maybe some others.

Start by eliminating one problem and move on to the next.

here is something to try if it has one. on the engine side of axle, on axle itself. there may be a tapered pin to hold axle in. take a punch and drive this pin out to remove axle from transmission. i am not sure if your car has one, but my subaru did.

Taking the blower fan down would give you access to the heater. And mice can crawl through a hole as small as 3/4", check anywhere around your car for holes 3/4" or larger. They can climb on your tires and up in your engine too. Also check the vent between the hood and windshield.

i would say if you can axcess the blower fan. take it out and blow through the rest of the vents with compressed air starting with the one furthest away from the fan. you will need to have the key on and have someone constantly switching the vents to be used. cover your face. when you are all done, before you lock it up for the night spray a whole bottle a lysol to help sanitize your system and leave the windows cracked if weather permits. before you take it on a drive turn the system on for about a half hour on high so the smell isnt as strong as youre trying to warm up. happy holidays

they should come out but be carful not to damage the dashboard

try using a shop vac or compressed air to push it threw and break it up,then vaccum it out.

Its not hard you just have to disconnect the front steering knuckle, brake, and eather use a pry bar or a slide hammer to remove the cv joint. It can be done in a couple of hours.

one of two solutions:

The contacts on your fan switch are bad, or you striped the knob and it won't turn the switch on, or the big bad one...your fan motor has decided it needs a vacation.

Hope this helps you, and I hope it's just the knob is stripped..it's the lesor of two evils

I found this from another owner with a similar problem. I plan to pull the 15 amp flasher fuse first, then try to replace the hazard flaher unit relay. The hazard flasher unit needs to be replaced. I've taken the knee bolster off, removed the hood release lever, but I can't get the electrical connector unplugged, nor can I get to the flasher retaining screw to remove it. Any suggestions?

i have the same prob low and hi dont work changed relay, checked fuses... i have power at the relay (LB)

no the next step is to have the fault codes read indicates a problem idle sensor running rich is heated oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold or problem dirty injectors causing a problem in the air /fuel mixture settings