1992 Subaru Legacy - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

lucas oil makes a good transmission leak product

it needs a new alternator, mine did the same thing, the part rebuilt refurbished is about 140 , u get 30 back when you return your old part, autozone or any big chain has it.....it is very easy to install , gooogle it or its about 60 for an install... good lucj

After 20 plus years, those motors tend to fail.There is a small allen wrench in the center console that is used for cranking the belt into the driving position when this happens. The motor is at the bottonm of the b pillar and you should see the hole for the allen.

in what way do you mean. is the remotes not working or are they another set? original set you turn key in ignition to number 2 and press the fob. (remote) then the doors should lock press again to unlock and turn key back to 0 and try fob again do this for both. make sure the batteries are new in the fob's. leave ignition off for 3 min before doing the other one.

do a full system flush on the radiator and engine and the lines to the heater. flush them out. also change the thermostat and the temp switch, the temp switch sensor is the one with only one wire on it with either a 11mm or 13mm head on it depending what one was fitted. after it is flushed reconnect the pipes add the water and antifreeze, when all clean in the system the water should come out clean. 50/50 water antifreeze should be used. leave the top off the header tank and run the engine with the heater on number one. keep squashing the pipes as the engine warms up to help get the air out and keep the header tank full to the top. when the fan kicks in to cool the rad turn off the engine and leave to cool down when cool top up to the line and put the cap back on. wile you are doing the bleeding you should see the temp go up. if the heat goes to or above a 100 and the fan does not come on then the fan switch or motor may need changing, thermostats last for around 5 years, temp switches can last up to 5 years temp switch for the fan can be around 3 to 8 years.

there is a fuse for this system to work, check the fuse in main fuse box. also check the wiring to the servo motor and that the motors are working one motor not working will make them both not work. also check that you dont have auto light adjustment as if you have this fitted the switch may be damaged, it is fitted to the under side depending on were you are in the world it can be on the left or right side of the suspension. some models were fitted with both systems. this was as when you had a load in the boot the lights would be going up and down with every bump in the road. so with no load in the car it would work fine, but when it was full the lights would go on and off the road you would use the swith to turn this off and stick in one positon on the road.

would need more info as there are a lot of solenoids, what one are you meaning. engine or auto box.

no they did not start putting chips in till 199-5-6. it was a polla key or it would read the board in the key, flat battery or remote not working would make the immobiliser stay on.

does the the starter turn over the engine. if it does it's not the starter or relay, low fuel pressure ie leak in line and not getting the right pressure if not on the fuel line it can be the line in the fuel tank faulty pressure regulator. old warn spark plugs and leads. blocked breather lines on the engine to the intake. all these would need to be cleaned and checked.

Sounds like it is not toughing 100% and making full gear contact with the fly-wheel. Replace starter or the misalignment can burr the flywheel causing rounding and subsequent damage to the device.

fuel lines could be cracked on the tank top. if its not had them changed then would think it would be this. as over time they split and crack. and 92 modle would think it was this.

I prefer Big O tires.. they are great at helping and are better than Firestone and a little less expensive.. I am having the same problem. I have a new selenoid but I'm not sure where it is.. It isn't like a normal car where the positive terminal from the battery connects to it. That cable connects directly to the starter..

The 185 75 series will have a taller sidewall than the 70 series but the 205 will have a wider tread and be a bigger tire overall. Stand them side by side to see their height difference then check and see if one will rub anywhere up front with your wheels turned in each directions. If you have adequate clearance, I see no problem other than your speedometer will register a slightly slower speed when using the larger tires.

You can but you will most likely experience bottoming out on the rear of your car and also hard steering will cause the tires to rub on the inner fenders. It will also slow your speedometer down by 5 mph.

216 Nm or 159 ft-lb

You can use obd2 code scanner to check the engine system.

Sounds like a bad ignition system, if its firing poorly through your distributor once it warms up its not firing hot enough.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the rear exhaust pipe and muffler assembly.
4. On All Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles, remove the rear differential assembly and the rear crossmember. You do not have AWD so this step is not for you
   
5. Remove the fuel filler cap and drain the fuel into a suitable container.
6. Remove the fuel filler pipe protector.
7. Raise and support the vehicle safely on jackstands.
8. Remove the fuel filler, air vent and delivery hoses.
9. On AWD vehicles, disconnect the air breather hoses and evaporation hose from the pipes.
10. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack or equivalent lifting device.
11. Loosen the attaching bolts and lower the fuel tank slightly.
12. Disconnect the fuel pump harness
    

It sounds like you have a Short/Ground Issue or your Alternator/Battery is having a Continuity Issue. That is the first place you need to start.

You have a blown head gasket