1991 Subaru Legacy - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

He is not cleaning the pan and attaching surface....Should also use adhesive........Hope this helps.

Could be a Bad VSS ( Vehicle Speed Sensor ) or an Electrical Problem for your Speedometer ! For Check Engine maybe a coincidence or a code telling a Sensor is Bad.. ! Most of the Subarau I saw from the year has a Check Engine with one or many code.. several time it's a Pcm Problem.. because all the code tell's you at the end if everything if fine : Change PCM.. so first i Would check your Vehicle Speed Sensor ! And Check the Code from the Check Engine !

If the check engine light goes on for any length of time, there probably are codes stored in the computer that can give you clues as to what is wrong with the electronic engine controls, or mechanical parts on the engine.
Reading Codes 1985–94 vehicles Codes are displayed by the MIL flashing ON and OFF. The time duration of the flash identifies the significance of the digit. Three flash durations are used:

• A flash duration of 0.5 seconds indicates no malfunction (OK).
• A flash duration of 1.3 seconds indicates that it is a 10's digit.
• A flash duration of 0.2 seconds indicates that it is a 1's digit.

For example, if 3 flashes — 1.3 seconds long — are followed by 4 flashes — 0.2 seconds long — a Code 34 is indicated. These code sequences are separated by 1.8 seconds to avoid confusing tens and ones digits.

• Read Memory Mode: used to pull codes which have been stored in memory. It is most effective in detecting poor contact of wiring harness connectors. To enter this mode, connect the read memory connector with the ignition ON.
• D Mode: used to diagnose and test the entire injection system. To enter this mode connect the test mode connector with the ignition ON. On the Legacy and SVX, the ignition must be ON with the engine running.
• F-Check Mode: used to measure the performance characteristics of the injection system components. When working in this mode, a Select Monitor or equivalent scan tool is required.
• U Check Mode: operates during normal engine operation. It signals the driver using the MIL only when components necessary for start-up and drive are faulty. The read memory and test connectors must be disconnected with the ignition ON for this mode to be operational.

Clearing Codes 1985–94 vehicles With the ignition ON and the engine running, connect both the read memory terminal and the test mode terminal

either a o2 lambda sensor or air pressure valve has gone
simple fix

yes they have a timing belt and should be changed every 60k. now honestly everyone is different but ill tell ya what subaru are the easiest and simplist to work on almost nothing to them and they run forever.but that is my opinion.ah prices all pending where you live but i wouldn't charge more then $300-350 to change one.it is about 3 hours to change for sohc and 4 for dohc estimate about $80-100 for most shops now a days.The belt runs about $50-60 bucks but sometimes pending mileage i would change out the belt tensioner they run about 100 buck so be prepared. but youll prolly never have to change it again though.like i said they last for ever!!!

most likely a cv axle if it makes popping noise in turns

Your brake light is out.
Check brake lights and repl. burnt light bulb .

have you check the oil level on trans and have you change the oil on the engine lately check the levels on both. Usually on engine is too much oil car drags and on trans if low oil it usually stays in gear to protect the trans. your car is telling you check oil. No lubrication some warning lights do not come up for trans

Start by checking all fuses. Inside and under the hood. It may blown one for the computer.

I would have to send this to you via email due to this sites lack of space. If this is ok, try [email protected] and I will get those right to you free of charge.

Cat or secondary air system not doing there job.
Have the vehicle serviced by a repair shop this emissions stuff expensive and legallies be careful.

So your saying the water pump isn't working?

rotar doesn't contain the studs, the plate/hub behind the rotar does - you need a 32mm socket to undo the axle nut to then get at the hub (need a flat screw driver to lever the nut tang up first). If it's seized on put the rotar and wheel back on (leave the axle nut off) and gently rock it in a top-bottom motion (not radially or axially) to free it up. you can then gain access to the hub and studs. put the wheel nuts back on the studs 2 -3 turns so that you have a 'seat' and using a bolt with a smaller dia to punch them out

fuel pump regulator maybe?

The engine dying when you take your foot off of the gas is a sure sign of a vacuum leak. On a vehicle with that much mileage the very first suspect would be the EGR valve. They coke up with gunk and stick open which allows the intake and exhaust air to mix that substantially drops the intake vacuum pressure.

I leaking intake manifold gasket could also cause this problem.

For sure your dealing with a Vacuum Leak.

If you have access to a compression tester I would bet that a test of compression would be within operational ranges. 125 - 150 It can be as low as 100 - 110 PSI and still run but your would note low power problems at lower engine RPMs. If it has not been puffing blue smoke compression is probably ok.

Once you check out the EGR valve make sure to clean the metal tubing for the valve. After that start looking for broken vacuum lines all over the engine. Most of the time they hoses crack at or near the connection points.

Kelly

try cleaning up the battery cables

Possibly the timing belt is broken. How does the engine sound when you crank the starter. Does it sound "normal" or does it sound fast and quiet? Have someone else crank the starter, can you feel any pressure coming out of the tailpipe? If the timing belt is broken the engine will sound very quiet and there will be no pressure coming out the tailpipe.

Have your key fob checked out at your Subaru dealer. The battery might be flat.

No spark = bad coil, bad coil connections(check all for tightness), bad distributor cap or rotor(assuming vehicle doesn't use coil packs, which i doubt for a 91)

fuel filter? fuel pump? fuel pressure regulator? all those things could be it. or maybe even the timing belt slipped