20 Most Recent 1991 Subaru Legacy - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I'd guess it is your throttle position sensor, that fits your symptoms more than anything that was changed out.

bad rear main seal on motor or bad front trans seal

I have the exact same problem!!! I'll let you know if I get and answer - my email is [email protected] - let me know if you get there first!!

autozone.com sign up its free then click on repair manuals you will find all of your info there....good luck

Try checking the basic stuff like the fuel filter and or fuel pump back flush the fuel filter to see if thats it.

crank sensor

Very likely, the water could be being sucked into an inlet port or blown into a exhaust port. You could try something like Block Leak as a quick fix, I am not really in favour of that route, but it could save you a costly head replacement.

if there are no leaks then they have problems with head gaskets blowing compression into coolant when cold remove rad cap fill with coolant run engine then rev up engine look for bubbles in coolant if so then replace head gaskets

Hello, oscargarza73 and thank you for asking your question on Fixya!

Here is a simple process that will walk you through a few steps that will pinpoint the overheating problem on your 1991 Subaru Legacy, without even using any tools. It has helped millions of people, and I am certain that it will help you, because I wrote it for people in your exact situation.
How to diagnose your overheating 1991 Subaru Legacy

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Thanks for the vote, and good luck!

Read Memory Mode : used to pull codes which have been stored in memory. It is most effective in detecting poor contact of wiring harness connectors. To enter this mode, connect the read memory connector with the ignition ON . D Mode : used to diagnose and test the entire injection system. To enter this mode connect the test mode connector with the ignition ON . On the Legacy and SVX, the ignition must be ON with the engine running. F-Check Mode : used to measure the performance characteristics of the injection system components. When working in this mode, a Select Monitor or equivalent scan tool is required. U Check Mode : operates during normal engine operation. It signals the driver using the MIL only when components necessary for start-up and drive are faulty. The read memory and test connectors must be disconnected with the ignition ON for this mode to be operational.

i am guessing your car is an automatic. i would think you are low on transmission fluid and the auto probably needs a service to change the filter adjust the bands and renew the oil.

To replace the outer boot, the inner joint and boot must be removed as the outer joint usually isn't easy to separate from the axle shaft. The outer shaft or joint may be damaged if disassemble is attempted. As noted above, if the inner left side boot is torn, it can be replaced while on the car, just by separating the knuckle at the ball joint as noted, then pulling the axle off of the trans-axle output splines.

The inner tripod joint can be removed by removing or pulling back the boot at the joint and then removing the inner circlip that acts as a stop to prevent the joint from separating. With the clip removed, the tripod trunnion and bearings (free rings) can be removed from the housing. Its best to keep the tripod bearings on their respective pins and the bearings in the same races in the housing, so marking everything as you disassemble is important for joint life after reassembly. With the bearing assembly out of the housing, remove the external circlip that holds the tripod axle in place on the splined shaft and slide the tripod off. Marking position is again important to prevent vibration problems.

Now the inner boot, then the outer boot can be removed and replaced. Be sure to look for dirt or water in the joints, and repack with enough CV grease to provide lubrication, but not so much that there isn't any expansion space inside the boot. This may cause excess grease to be pushed out or the boot to dislodge. Reinstall the boot retaining bands with a proper crimping tool. Work the joints in all directions before reinstalling the axle, just to make sure there is no hint of binding. The joints should feel tight, but with no hitches, which could cause noise or vibration.

maybe one the sensor maybe got wet all you have to do is unplug them and dry them with low pressure air if you can and also blow the engine with some air to dry any wet spots that could have affected your electronic devices. Good luck

sounds like needs trans service badly

try blower motor resistor

replace resistor find by following wires out of blower to the thing it plugs into..should be held to box with 2 7mm screws