1990 Subaru Loyale - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

hi have a look at the link. http://workshop-manuals.com/subaru

With manual transaxle, my info says, 51--55 ft lbs. I can only tell you what my database shows.

The turn signal flasher unit is bad.

go to a truvk specialist--thinc u mite need a new case and havum look at alinement and steering

Hi Heather, Take the vehicle for a diagnostic scan. It may be a problem with a speed sensor. Regards John

check the oil level in the transmission as there may be insufficient / too much oil for correct operation of the transmission . There may also be a leak in a line or plug that was not tightened properly

Looks like models from 1985 to 1994 including carb and TBI.A salvage yard can tell you for sure.

check the signal fuse

Mine was under the steering column but on top of the brain. It is silver metallic and round. Another relay was on the bracket next to it.

this might help as most of the 1.8's where the same its 1-3-4-2 and no 1 cyl is the passengerside front and on the dist.the no.1 plug should bethe 1 on the back side of the dist. to the right next to the hold down. hope this helps

The fuel pump relay is way up under the dash on the drivers side. It's green and should be to the left of a brown one and neutral colored one

Hi the relay is located under the front of the dash by the drivers pedals on the side by the fuse box just slightly above it

if pump is good and no fuel to the injector, means the injector is stopped up. change injector and o-ring.

The reservoir is in the engine compartment in front of the driver. See picture below. If fluid is low, check for a leak below the reservoir where the master cylinder attaches to the booster and also at all wheels. If you find a leak, report back for repair instructions/advice.

Fuel Filter The fuel filter should be replaced and all fuel system hoses and connection should be inspected at 12,000 mile (19,000 km) interval for carburetor equipped models, and 30,000 mile (48,300 km) intervals for fuel injected models. When the vehicle is operated in extremely cold or hot conditions, contamination of the filter may occur and the filter should be replaced more often.

Average range 1,500 to 2,500.

There are a few after-market sellers who offer door handles for most cars on ebay, reasonably priced. Go to www.ebay.com and enter "Subaru Loyale door handle" in the search bar. Alternatively, you can order one from a salvage yard, try www.car-parts.com. And of course, if money is no object, you can check with your local Subaru dealer's parts department.

Replacement is not too hard. You may be able to do it without even removing the door panel. There is a screw that holds the handle in the door. Undo it, then slide the handle back and forth gently to loosen it from its set holes, and pull it away from the door panel. Then unfasten the door lock connecting rod/hook from the back side of the handle assembly. Fasten the new handle on the hook, re-insert into the door panel, set the handle in place, and replace the holding screw.

5w30 in engine (or 10w30)
75w90 in transmission

My apologies for the delayed response. I am going back to answer unanswered questions.

CLICK on the following LINK. I beleive it has the Diagrams for your Timing Belt that you will need.
If you would: Before Clicking let me know if this helped you, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Again my sincerest apologies...
Thanks!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1990/make/subaru/model/loyale/1990_subaru_loyale_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

I hope this helps : A lot of people, even mechanics overlook the dramatic effects of "air lock" as described above. This is especially prominent in BMW's because they seem more "picky". Your cooling system (every cooling system) is balanced just well enough to nearly always keep your engine cool when operating properly. Sometimes a pocket of air does become trapped at one of the higher points ion the system however. This air pocket acts like a blanket trapping heat in the one dry area, in addition to impeding air flow. I would start WITH THE ENGINE COLD, by adding a radiator flush tee in to the heater hose leading to the intake. Start the car with the flush cap off, and the radiator cap. Play with the hoses and try to keep this tee higher than the fill cap on the radiator, to let out any air. When water is seen at the tee, cap it off and fill the radiator all the way, with the engine running, as to fill the entire block. Keep in mind that with the engine running, you kind of need to hurry. In only a few minutes, the water will get hot enough to start spewing from the open radiator (don't worry you have plenty of time, assuming it's all the way cooled down) I have seen many people leave their radiator half full, because it takes some time for the water to trickle all the way down through the runners on the radiator, and it looks full even though there is "air" (it's technically hydraulic pressure, like a siphon) holding it up. Hope fully that is the problem. You already re- did the whole system. Check your igniton timing too. Sometimes that can contribute to an overheat as well.