still won't shift
The word button , tips hand that it is a automatic trans,
but not which one. they had 2 that year, 42/44re and
the AW4 box, has a TCM (tranny brain.)
and all tranny brains go to limphome mode, (skipping or freezing 2nd) if inputs are WRONG.
the TCM can be scanned, to see why, skipping this step misses the boat,
I have the 1995 FSM book. chapter 21.
42 or 44RE trans? is that yours. the tag on side tells you what it is. look for the tag, and learn what car run for a drive-line.
see" trans... opt" here. ZJ
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
page 21-45 is diagnosis page, in the FSM book.
ON car service, and step 2 is scan it. (step one is fuses. levels)
ever consider read this book on this car and this trans?
here is the non tool way,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWXaoC3Qi7g
i use a Innova 3140 , tool that does jeep 1993-95, OBD1
i have not tried, to see if it will log a trans DTC;s
using a real scan tool , helps greatly to see all TCM codes.
most TCM can do 10 error code, all very revealing.
make sure the transmission is grounded, with a good ground strap
seen people replace trans 3 times, then do strap last. sad.
Trans issues are many
(ill skip bad trans)
wiring bad, from TCM to trans, or from TCM to all sensors. to it.
bad TCM
lost power 12vdc to TCM for any reasons.
lost ground to trans or TCM.
a scan tool that can scan this back in 1995 was the DRB-ii
DOES THAT HELP?
On the throttle. Under the hood, you will see the air filter plenum going to the throttle. On the throttle you will see cables coming from the firewall connecting to the throttle linkage. Just opposite of that linkage is the throttle position sensor(TPS). two screws/bolts hold it on.
the tests are easy, ask.
my guess is the weak side is bad, the load side is ok.
you can turn the volume down on the load side using volumn control
if yes that side is ok, fix weak side.
ask how, but make sure the wiring in all 4 corners are not damage
and at both ends of harness.
The blower motor is under the passenger side of the dashboard, and they are prone to problems from the electrical connectors being damaged from people kicking them, not intentionally, it's just in a place where there is no protection. Check all the fuses first, then with a flashlight, look under the dash at the blower motor resistor connector and motor connector. If it all looks ok, use a tester to check for voltage at the resistor, and at the motor. If there is power to the resistor, but not the motor, replace the resistor pack
Anything I tell you is going to be a guess, since there has been no testing done, and we don't have the model number of the specific radio involved. However...
For a 20 year old radio, the volume and balance is almost certainly controlled by a potentiometer that has input into one leg of the fixed resistance, and the other leg (of the fixed resistance) is grounded. The movable center tap is the output to the amplifier - and its position controls the volume to that channel. If the ground leg becomes disconnected (broken wire, or a cold solder joint, or even a break in the resistor within the body of the potentiometer) then instead of "dividing" the volume, it simply provides a slight resistance inline - short answer: It goes full volume.
You can try running the control full range back and forth, and even just the old time "slap it" approach, to see if you get any static or change. If you do, that pretty well confirms the diagnosis. [If not, it just means the break is not close to touching - still almost certainly the right answer though.]
Only fix is going to be disassembly. You then may be able to find the break (and resolder it), and/or replace the volume potentiometer. Note that if you have remote volume/balance control (controls on the steering wheel), then there is some extra wiring that can likewise be involved. jk
cab fuse or engine bay fuse? JB or PDC box?
no not true.
so why not post what the car does good and bad.
car runs perfectly and shifts ? all that.
all other light in car work? radio, etc.
with parking lights on does cluster glow? (back ground illumination?)
the cluster warning lights are dead , all are dead?
are all gauges, dead too? if some are say what? are dead.?
fuel , and engine heat?
the fsm is free.with full docs and schematics, lets look together now.
WJ jeep 95
click wiring (at end)
chapter 8w-40-1
volt meter in hand.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
see that page?
page 2 to 9 is cluster "instruments "
PDC fuse 17 (engine bay) is PDC
and cab JB fuse 10
so 22 is bogus. there is no fuse 22 (usa car)
there is fuse 22 terminal. on fuse 9 and fuse 21>?
forget terminals, we do fuses real names,
first off, the cluster is a computer, im not privy to its programming,
(is anyone?)
but it must communicate to the PCM or its will fail, on the canbus
so turn on ignition (car battery charged to 12.6vdc rested)
all warning lights come one.
if not the cluster is not happy, this is a selft tests. of lamps.
the fuse posted above are the only fuses for it. PDC 17 and JB10
we use a scan tool next to be sure the PDC is not barfing comm errors. first. (or DTCs stating power loss)
recap
read the manual above
see the correct fuses for cluster
see that it is a computer with comm lines.
if those 2 pins on the cluster are12vdc key on then that is not the problem and the ground pin on cluster is at 0v, not 12v.
fuse 5 and 9 run (JB) run air bag computer box.
this is power to the cluster below, 8w-40--2
the whole cluster runs off those 4 power pins, if power is lost
the cluster brain goes dead. the left pin below is memory pin.
right top is main power. to cluster.
if this is good
a scan tool is necessary to move on.
just like all cars with CanBUS, ,
an innova 3140 works. good.
If fuse 22 is good it is most likely a wiring issue, most likely with one of the airbags sensors, I would personally not bother fixing it. Airbags from the 90's are almost as dangerous as the crash. Drive carefully, don't count on it working. Your truck is 20 years old and the wiring is only gonna get worse, it's the car equivalent of cancer.
It will lack lots of power going up hill, especially if its a really steep one and you keep it in drive. Make sure you downshift to second, or fist if its really steep.
was there? (is , we can not ever guess)
sure, on A/T cars, but never M.T we manual stick person shift blind.
no issues.
but a/T
well why not read the FSM?
a jeep 95 ZJ
so......
all cab lights (illum) are really dimmed PARK lights.
so of all lights in cap and cluster (not dome) are glowing but one
then the ONE is burned out. (or wire cut,etc)
chapter 8w.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
click wiring
click index page 19 pdf
see listing there, see 8w-40-8 show the dim post top of page
then a fuse
then spilts to cluster and PRNDL lamp.
so yes, it was there.
but is dead now, and if it has 12vdc keyon ,parks on,
then the lamp is (blown)
so now you know how to fish, easy huh with real books.
books RULE.
the glove box oper guide lost.
get one?
the fsm covers that and is free.
chapter 8w>?
not only the fuse numbers but all loads on all fuses and
drum roll, the tree distribution of said wires.
page 8w-11-1 (posted like 100 times now, by many)
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
click 95 GC , wiring
really that one pdf , its all there. (can be saved too, ask)
the switch is PRNDL. (sure a loose or bad cable will do that)
when worn out they do that, warn contacts. inside.
if you go under car and shift by hand, ends, wonderment.(a test)
read the manual, ?
read wiring chapter here.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
click wiring,
pages 8w-11-6 and 8w-51-2 and 3
the contacts on pins 1 and 3 are bad
or the lever fails to index switch correctly (cable bad or loose etc)
all it takes is a volt meter at pin 3,
btw all fail like this, in the end, no switch lasts for ever.
on my 1995 jgc the fuse box is all way on the right side of the dash you have to open the right door to open the small cover the diagram is on the back of the cover you removed to tell which circuit they control. the power distribution center out by the battery has the larger fuses in it and also what circuit they control. I hope this will help you.
what if it doesn't want to change? (shrink jokes)
ok why not read the manual first ,then ask questions.
make sense?
click heating and AC tab.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
simple question usually are huge complex answers on cars.
they are complex mix if tech.
but HVAC tops list. due to laws, tools needed,
RTM , then read again.
Assuming 4wd or AWD.
Remove wheel.
With someone in the car pressing on brakes, remove the center nut (pinion nut). I use impact gun once the retaining clips are off.
Now remove brakes (rotor and all)
Unbolt hubs (good time to replace them if needed).
Press hub off pinion. I use a large steering wheel puller/harmonic balancer puller.
Axle now will slide out of the hole where the hub was.
Consider replacing the ball joints at this time (use OTC ball joint press + the jeep specific adapters there is a slight angle to the inner C's and if you don't have the jeep specific adapters you will spend hours cursing .
Changing the axle (or hubs) is mainly an excercise it getting rusted bolts off. Changing ball joints - with the right tools - is not to bad.
Check with autoparts store for the torque values to tighten everything up.
Obviously check your brakes while you are in there.
if this is good
a scan tool is necessary to move on.
just like all cars with CanBUS, ,
an innova 3140 works. good.
