20 Most Recent 1995 Audi Cabriolet - Page 6 Questions & Answers

cranks fast or does not crank fast it must crank to start so cranking is first see? battery lugs ,rust free and tight? main bat. no year car told. 1996 to 2012. (a3) no engine told ,gas/petrol /diesel engine stalled, (stalls have 50 causes)\ no cranks have 6. causes not told what failed. (is starter motor silent) cranking/

What year is this Audi? Is this all six spark plugs or just some of them? I'm assuming they are new, fresh spark plugs. Old, dirty plugs can cause problems. Have you had the vehicle scanned for OBD2 Trouble codes? These can give clues as to where the problem could be. If only some plugs are failing to spark it could be the plug wires causing the issue. If this is the case replace All six to give an even spark to all the cylinders. ONLY remove One wire at a time that way you don't get them mixed up and onto the wrong cylinders. If all six have failed it could be the coil pack itself that has failed. Swapping a coil pack is reasonably easy but again ONLY remove One wire at a time to avoid messing up the firing order. If you have to pay for the OBD2 scan ask at 4 or 5 different places as prices can be VERY different.

"alt is started the lights" WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? THE ALTERNATOR LAMP GLOWS OR WHAT. TELL ALL TH AT WORKS GOOD AND BAD. OR DEAD car starts and drives,???????????? Rad fan stuck on even a dead cold engine? Rad fans as the sticker under hood says can come on automatically. at any time,even key off, (the engine is too hot) tell all good and bad, cars are complex tell the full story.

wow big time OLDSKOOL and no year told at all a5? no year, no model told (exact) nor the engine there or post the VIN and we tell you.

The shop that jumped it and did the damage should be liable for fixing their screw up.

The cost to replace the transmission control module (TCM) on a 2003 Audi A4 can vary depending on several factors, such as the location of the repair shop, the extent of the damage to the TCM, and the cost of the replacement part. On average, the cost of replacing the TCM for a 2003 Audi A4 can range from $500 to $1,500. This cost includes the cost of the replacement part and the labor involved in the repair. However, depending on the extent of the damage to the TCM or if other parts need to be replaced along with the TCM, the cost can go up significantly. It's always a good idea to get a quote from a reputable repair shop before proceeding with any repairs. They can provide you with a more accurate estimate based on the specific details of your situation. Additionally, if your Audi A4 is still under warranty, the cost of the repair may be covered, so it's worth checking with your dealer to see if this is the case.

IT CAN ONLY BE IN 4 PLACES, CALLED CKP. FRONT, MIDDLE OR REAR OF CRANK SHAFT SOME ENGINES REAR SENSOR BEHIND FLYWHEEL. now you know where to look. THE KEY FACTOR TOO IS THE TONE WHEEL 3 PLACES ON THE CRANK, OR OMG, JUST SLOTS IN THE FLY WHEEL., GOOGLE STINKS AT FINDING IT. THE A3 IS NOT SOLD IN USA, SO WHERE ARE YOU.? NO VIN POSTED SO GET THE EXACT ENGINE 2.0L DIESEL INLINE 4 TDI, 2.0 L I4 TDi

2.0 R4 16v TDI CR 81-176kW (EA288)LISTED FOR

110 kW (150 PS; 148 bhp) at 3,500 rpm; 320 N?m (236 lbf?ft) at 1,750-3,000 rpm - CRBC Audi A3, 135 kW (184 PS; 181 bhp) at 4,000 rpm; 380 N?m (280 lbf?ft) at 1,750-3,000 rpm - CUNA, CUPA Audi A3, CRBC? HERE I THINK REAR. LEFT SIDE COOL VIEW NO, LOTS OF GOOGLING TO FIND IT.

Try to jerk steering Wheel and turn key in same time

page 29 of your manual explains only way to clear info and its only with the 2 buttons on the wiper switch ----and the only way you dont have one would be by old owner put in wrong multi-switch ----https://www.manualslib.com/manual/396576/Audi-A4.html?page=29#manual

so cranks fast and robustly? yes/no? if yes 50 causes. do you what 50 wild guesses or how to do the 20+ tests to find it. and tools to match you do not have. check fuses. scan the PCM while it fails to start. google my engine cranks fast but will not start. EV have motors ,our ICE is and engine the starter motor cranks the engine and the EFI starts the run and sustains it. even bad fuel is cause. 50 causes. (or engine bad,spark bad, fueling bad 1,2,3) 3 million hits google https://www.google.com/search?q=why%20my%20engine%20cranks%20fast%20but%20will%20not%20start%20

It is possible that the issue is related to a low battery charge or a malfunctioning battery sensor. When the battery charge is low, the car's electronic systems may not function properly. A malfunctioning battery sensor can also cause issues with start-stop and other electronic features. You may want to try charging or replacing the battery and see if that resolves the issue. If the problem persists, it is best to have the car inspected by a certified mechanic or dealership to diagnose and repair the issue.

If you buy new plugs that are correct for your car, they normally come pre gapped (particularly platinum and other 'non copper' plugs). I like to run 36/1000 or 0.8mm. But 1.1mm (43/1000) is also common.

hyjacked post, personally I just look under hood. no engine told of 2 in USA are you USA? both V8 3.7 or 4.2L, sorry cant guess them. the cars VIN number not posted so cant tell what's under hood. the service guide shows that. buy one? most TB have 1998 year have 4 bolts for base mount. some a8 are 5 bolts one TPS sensor to pull. throttle cables for throttle, transmission and even cruise control to remove, and hoses maybe and the main air cleaner side removed, from TB bingo

ive bought 500.00 beaters that have outlived every single audi ive ever owned and having owned part of several car dealerships literally hundreds of audis ive had a lot of audis ! to be entirely honest the united states should not allow vw to import these cars they are a complete hazard to everyone whom has to share the road with them ! with that being said ive replaced several hi pressure fuel pumps and it usually eliminates this problem the hi pressure pump on a 3.2 runs on your cam and often looses pressure the lobe on your cam also goes flat especially if you live in a cold climate the seals fail miserably! i highly doubt your tps is the problem these people are sucking you dry ! they want you to buy a new car ..ive had new audi dealers tell me my ecu was fried and my car would never run again scrap it i got a donor ecu bought a few hours subscription time to odis and put mabe 10 hours of my time into reprogramming a donor ecu and bam my scrap audi what the new car dealers called it was up n running ! dealers want to sell you cars ! not fix them ! check your fuel pressure i bet as it warms up your seals are not expanding with the pump so it wont hold fuel back the fuel bypasses and floods your motor as you slow down ! this also will happen when a motor is cold if you dont give it throttle as you start it

no VIN told Nor countryN or engine size NOT TOLD IS IT AWD? not quatTro, i guess.1. LEARN THIS. FIRST LEARN WHAT TRANSMISSION IS THERE 1:, MAKERS NAME AND MODEL.! sorry nobody can guess. lacking VIN. even the dealer will not talk to you lacking VIN( blind) then and only then are answers super simple. the transmission matches engines, for higher torque engines they install a higher torque gear box. a physics deal that. USA CAR? BELOW !, NO COUNTRY TOLD OR VIN 7-speed box or 8 speed box 7=OBZ S-TRONIC. 8= OBK - AWD IS IT ALL WHEEL DRIVE, NO VIN TOLD SO NO ANSWERS POSSIBLE. 99% OF ALL POSTS HERE NOBODY TELLS VIN OR Country and go nowhere, or get lies. I have no answer, but most front sensors in most boxes are buried deep in same,. (depends)

Cigarette lighter fuse – (fuse box in passenger compartment, fuse ?33/15A)

no info generic answer -have vehicle scanned for trouble codes

The torque settings for the cylinder head bolts on a 2005 Audi A4 1.8T engine are as follows:

• Step 1: Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
• Step 2: Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to an additional 90 degrees

It's important to note that these torque settings are specific to the 2005 Audi A4 1.8T engine and may vary for other models or years of the A4. It is recommended to consult the factory service manual or consult a professional mechanic for the specific torque setting of your vehicle.

As long as the plug wires are the same as before you started you simply start the vehicle as you would normally.

You should be able to do a leak down test to see if you still have a leak in the engine. Were the heads checked for cracks when the head gaskets were done? If all cylinders pass the leak down test, that pretty much leaves the oil cooler. I think if the turbo was the culprit it would show in the exhaust, but I guess stranger things have happened. You might be able to bypass the cooler just to verify that it isn't the culprit?