I think you mean that the clutch pedal has to pressed to the floor to change gears. Could be either
* the slave or master cylinder is leaking
* the clutch is nearly worn out.
This is usually something in the transfer case. Get it diagnosed ASAP before it gets any worse and more expensive. Be aware that the dealer will quote you the worst case and want to replace everything. If the car is out of warranty, look for a local Subaru specialist, and get multiple quotes,.
It's called "dieseling". Your engine is so hot it keeps running even without spark to the spark plugs. The vacuum caused by the moving pistons sucks in more air/fuel, and this keeps the process going in a vicious cycle.
Checking the cooling system for leaks and flushing the coolant would be the cheapest place to start. Flush twice with distilled water and flush compound, then add a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze. This will also help your emissions, since NOx is created in a hot engine.
At a guess, I'd say that the pressure wash has allowed some water to get into connectors. Get can of WD40 and pull the spark wires from the coils and squirt in the coil holes. Clean the spark wires with WD40. Any other connectors you can get at, pull and squirt. If the spark wires are old (5 years+), you may need a new set.
OK, there's at least a fuse problem to be investigated. If the rears stopped first, then look at the harness that runs thru a rubber tube from the roof line into the rear hatch. These wires can break with age. It's rather fiddly to fix, but can be done.
If the fronts got slow then stopped, pull the valence panel in front of the windscreen and then the wiper arm assembly. The arm pivots often rust up with age, effectively overloading the motor. It's fixable, but the replacement arm assembly is not unreasonably expensive.
Wiper motors rarely burn out, but is not impossible.
Most all aftermarket radios have their own fuse next to the wiring harness plug. Depending on the brand, it may only take a few minutes to pull the radio out of it's sleeve to check for the fuse. Usually, you can pop off the trim ring to see what you are working with.
I have a few trouble shooting tips for the problem with your Subaru Forester key fob.
1) Make sure you have the correct key fob part number. There are a couple different part numbers that are almost exactly the same.
2) Wipe the board
The board inside your remote can get a lot more filthy than you think! When the board is dirty it can prohibit the contact to the circuit board when you push down on the button. Simply wiping the circuit board off can make your key fob like new again!
3) The old car battery reset trick
I know this sounds absurd, but it works sometimes and is worth trying. If you exhausted all of the options above, disconnect bot terminals on your car battery for 10 minutes. Then reconnect them and try your key fob. This has worked for many people and I have no idea why. If you do, please comment below to explain.
4) Not sure where you bought the new key fob from, but some of the suppliers on eBay can be knock off quality. Try sending the one you purchased back and order one from here:
https://www.keylessentryremotefob.com/Subaru-Forester-Remotes-and-Keys-s/5381.htm
check for a broken timing belt as the valves may be blocking the engine . Remove the spark plugs in case a cylinder is full of water /fuel and is in hydraulic lock. Check oil level as it may have seized the engine.
If you have water in at least one cylinder, when you crank you are trying to compress water with your starter. ( liquid does not compress)
You need to check for water in cylinders by checking spark plugs. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_f2436a37cbb50365
Sounds like a winding has gone down on the starter, and if the starter stops on that winding, just the solenoid clicks, when it does it tap the starter body a few times and try to start it again, it can just move the rotor enough to get it to start, but it will need a new starter
