1998 Subaru Forester - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The dipstick for the tranny is located near the firewall. It looks like an oil dipstick, but the tube is a bit larger.

Above -4F......10W-30, 10W-40
Above 95F......30, 40, 10W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50 [1]
Below 104F......5W-30

Check the belts. If you can, open the hood, and crank it up cold, with the a/c and lights and rear defroster on, if the belts are noisy, spray water on them with a squirt bottle, if the noise stops, then replace the belts.

that might be for when your on a steep hill to hold the car in place until you give it the gas

The light flashing could be a simple "low on coolant or water". You may want to replace you reservoir cap, you will lose water over time if these go bad.

Check to see if your cooling fan is coming on. You may have a bad fan switch.

first....be sure the fuse is the right ampage. second...if the ampage is correct, and it still blows, do the following. Disconnect the ground-side of your battery. Attached test lamp to ground-side of battery. Take probe end of test lamp and touch anypart of the motor body frame. If the test lamp (DOES NOT LIGHT UP), you have an electrical short. Recommend OBD (On-board Diagnostic) analysis test.

what part of the country are you in?
you could have two things happening....
IN areas like California teh pump handle has a black cover over the nozzle.. this traps escaping fuel fumes while you fill your tank.. if you do not have enough pressure it will stop the pump..
If this is not the case.. it could be simply the design of your filler neck in the car... and you get a bottle neck that causes the nozzle to think the car is full.. simply do not put the nozzle fully in the car.. try backing it our a bit so that you do not create a bottle neck... kinda like pouring out soda from a bottle.. tilt it too much and it slows down the flow.

Depending on the size of the engine, 1 to 2 gallons.
If you have one, look in the owners manual that's in the glove box, that will show you how much it holds, or call a dealer and ask for the parts dept.

ther is a clock spring switch in the steering wheel to enable a continious connection the buttens and the unit the problem may lie there

ur knock sensor is located behind ur engine and it is attached to ur engines short block.

If it was the lock actuator then it would have been damaged in the accident and likely would have shorted out if it also affected the lights. shorting out would cause the fuse to blow.
To me this means that the problem isnt a short but an open. Like the wire got pulled hard enough that it seperated inside. personally if I had it here it would be a matter of tracing those wires back. The accident should provide the clue.
If it was a bad ground I would think the lights would work at least partially. Ideally you want the body guys to find this because they can remove the body panels with their tools pretty easy thus making it easy to access the wiring. Tracing wiring is a pain at the best of times, which is why they dont want to do it.
Every place where wires cross potentially sharp metal edges is a place to inspect.

Replace or check the heat sencor at the the rad. Never let the car over-heat!

sounds like you need an alt. car is not charging the battery.

could be a sticky thermistat. they are cheap so i would change it anyway at least you will know it isnt that

If you take off the rear wheels, you should see the rubber lines (if stock) with metal ends connected to the brakes and running up the wheel well. They are not too difficult to replace if need be.

Under dash by left knee is a 4" x4" box with a small wire on it. On the end of the wire is a small button. Push the button to reset. That sure cure your flashing marker lights. Good luck and have a great day.

check the fluid level-master cyl,

you probly have a leaf stuck in your air box

by the shop