1998 Subaru Forester - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

under the car you will have access to screws bolts clips etc

If the engine cranks but won't start, the starter and alternator would not be the problem.Was the engine running before you changed the timing belt ?Do you have spark to the plugs and fuel to the injectors ?Do you have normal compression on all cylinders ?

most fans in vehicles have phospher bronze bushes as bearings for the motor. These become dry and make a noise as described with thr motor eventually stopping. removal of the unit to replace or lubricate the bushes are the only answers. when you have done this check the fuse as it will probably have blown to protect the fan motor

Go to any mechanic with a code reader. They will plug it in and find the code that will have been set in the cars computer. This code can be looked up by the mechanic to find out wat the problem is. You need to do it NOW! Regards,Andy

The head gasket may be a problem, but it may be simpler, if your thermostat is on the bottom of the engine.
If coolant came out when the thermostat was changed, there should be a screw, probably plastic, that goes into the radiator, or near the inlet hose, at the top. This screw is used to release steam when car overheats to restore the vaccum. Turn car on and let idle to overheating temperature. NOW PROTECT YOURSELF FROM GETTING A STEAM BURN. Turn the screw very slowly until steam starts to come out, don't unscrew all the way or you will loose a lot of coolant all over your engine. make sure the coolant resevore has enough coolant to get sucked back in to the engine or this will take longer. Continue this process until there is no steam coming out, I let mine go until a little liquid coolant starts to bubble out from around the screw. Tighten screw and keep a watch on your temp gage, you may have to do it a couple of times as the coolant forces the air pockets out of the line. If this doesn't solve your problem then I would say check the headgasket.

Number one don,t spray any water on the transmission any more, Number Two, Get it towed to a transmission shop to get checked out, Number three , Be prepaird for a nce (Hefty) Bill for the (Screw) Up.

thaty is a very big job to do

I agree with the other Expert, but the steering wheel lockup is puzzling. Do you mean it did not turn or was hard to turn? Now if the steering wheel locked in its Parked position, then the Ignition switch had to allow it. It would be consistent with losing the electric feed to the motor and things the other Expert said. Your Ignition switch may have turned itself off. Sometimes too much weight on a keychain is enough.If the car will start, it may be okay. But the inside of your Ignition may be coming apart or your Keychip is cutting out. You might want to change Ignition switches.

Possible dirty fuel injector which is most common. It can also be bad oxygen sensors, vacuum leak, or worst case a leak at the intake manifold.

check the sway bar links

Because they are the same fault but for different engine cylinders, so the same troubleshooting applies. Go here to read how to diagnose and repair misfires.

not really sure but all codes are for missfire cylinder ,do you get a bad smell from exhaust ? (rotton eggs), do you have low exhaust pressure ,put hand over exhaust pipe and have someone reve motor it should push your hand away. good luck , hope this helped.

Check ground connections.

change the motor oil. but catsh the oil in a bucket orso,listen while,the oil comes out if you dont hear any pieces falling in bucket.second you say near trans,is it an automatic.sound can travel far.

If clutsh turns off and on in close cycles, refrigerant/freon is low or needs a refill.

it probably is the starter. the solenoid is probably getting power but not the starter motor, it may have a dead spot on it, if you can make the starter move a bit, it might start, if so replace the starter. starters arent cheap though, if possible have someone test it before you start throwing parts at it.

Your engine needs basically four things in order to start:> Volumetric efficiency (V)> Air/fuel ratio (A)> Compression (C)> Ignition (I)V + A + C + I = POWERWhen there is no POWER (engine will nor start or run), it is because one of the parts of the equation is missing. PRELIMINARY diagnosis is to determine which parts of the equation are present and which are missing. Then PINPOINT diagnosis is to determine WHY the missing parts are missing.Until pinpoint testing is completed, nobody can do anything but GUESS what is causing your engine to not start.

Ok open your drain **** on the bottom of the radiator run a water hose at top where radiator cap is see if the water runout the bottom good if not then you do have a blockage. I would all sheck to see if bottom hose is real soft when you squeeze it if so replace it. Just make sure you put the right kind of antifreeze back in your radiator if it needs replace. There is the green and there is orange kind, if you have aluminum heads orange is best. I hope this helps you if you haven't already fixed the problem.

Broken spring or binding Need more info.

Wow what a imagination,bussiness slow? I am slow, no action today.