Top 20 1998 Subaru Forester - Page 6 Questions & Answers

could be relay or multi function switch???? worth a shot anyways...

Open the hood, reach behind the headlight assembly and carefully turn the lamp assembly counter-clockwise, then remove the pigtail. To install a new lamp, simply do the reverse procedure.

at lower part of cover there are two phillips screws one by hood release and one by center console remove pull cover carefully top of cover is held by clips relay unit is on the inside if the cover

For timing belts $100-200 plus the cost of the belts.

I'm guessing you mean that the blower motor has stopped? No more fan right? Has it ceased to function at all fan speeds? If so, the blower motor has probably gone bad. Check the fuse for it first though. Then get a test light or a multimeter so you can check for power at the blower motor connector. On most Subaru's I've worked on, the blower motors are actually relatively easy to access. You should find it beneath and behind the glove box on the passenger side. You can slide the passenger seat all the way back, and lay upside down with your head on the floorboard and look up to get a good look at it. It'll be put in with just 3-4 screws holding it into the duct system. You can pull the connector off, and see if it gets power when the car and heater are both turned on. If you get power at the connector, but the motor doesn't turn, then you have found your problem.

The blower motor in my Subaru Impreza quit on me at about 160K miles, but I was able to get it going again by disassembling it and cleaning all dust out of the brushes and commutator. It was not really designed to be serviced however, but it worked out alright for me. Even if you have to replace it, you save a lot by doing it yourself.

Your transmission drive shaft is bad!! You will need to either 1. have your transmission serviced 2. Have a rebuilt transmission installed.

When that light flashes it normally means there is an electrical malfunction in the transmission. The best thing to do is have the codes read. This will require a scan tool, not just a code reader like the parts stores have. The code will lead to the actual problem. I would suggest checking the fluid level to make certain that is not the problem,however, it is likely more then that. Also try resetting the ecu resetting ECU on all foresters : Unhook the battery and touch the positive and negative cables together for 3 minutes. This will clear the capacitors in the ecu. If the light is still flashing there, then have it scanned.At www.autozone.com its free to get car scanned./

Hi there, got trouble getting your Forester to drink? I use a 2 ltr soda bottle. Fill it with AntiF/water mix and set it upside down in the filler cap. I use 2ltr soda bottle because they fit just so purfect that they sit like they fit. Gravity does the rest, fluid seeps in nice and steady. When the bubbles stop you are gtood to go.

The sequence of engine started normally, then the rpm dropped, followed by the bad noise is not a good sign.

The "bad noise" could be nasty, as in $$$$$ , and unrelated to the change of spark plug wires.

I'll bet the engine turns over but won't start, of maybe it fires a few times and stops. If this is the case, DO NOT keep trying to start the engine. It won't and you will do more damage trying.

What I suspect is that the main cam belt has slipped a few teeth, commonly because one of the idler bearings has jammed. What then happens is that the pistons hit the valves and bend them.

The diagnosis is done as follows (by your local garage as I doubt you have the skill or inclination):

a) remove the belts, main pulley and 3 front covers from the engine
b) remove the cam belt and inspect the idler pulleys for damage and wear.
c) realign the cams and belt correctly, and see if the engine will start. It may, but will run rough or won't start at all.
d) do a compression test on all cylinders. There should be about 150 psi in each one. You will almost certainly find one or both banks of cylinders have 50-80 psi or so, which indicates bent valves.

The fix for this requires that the heads be removed and the bent valves replaced. Taking the engine out is BY FAR the easiest way to do this, as doing it in place is extremely difficult. Getting the engine out is pretty simple once the radiator and AC condensor are removed. There's no need to remove the transmission.

In fact, if the valves are bent, its usually cheaper to get a complete running engine from a wrecker than repairing yours.

Your 98 likely has the FJ25 DOHC engine, but it could be the FJ25 SOHC. Make sure your garage gets the right one, and replaces the idler bearings, water pump and cam belt before they put it back in.

PULL BACK RUBBER BOOT BEHIND HEAD LITE UNSNAP CLIP THAT HOLS BULB IN ,REMOVE BULB INSTALL NEW ONE SNAP CLIP BACK ON SO IT DOESN'T FALL OUT,PUT RUBBER BAK ON,KEEPS WATER OUT

Your turn signal bulb is a 1157A or 1156 bulb (either will work), and usually inserts into a connector
that unscrews 1/4 turn counterclockwise, and comes out of a headlight-turn signal assembly on the
front of the vehicle.
Try: opening the hood and turning the bulb holder 1/4 turn counterclockwise, then withdraw the
bulb base and installed bulb. replace old bulb by turning it 1/4 turn counterclockwise and
pulling it out (the 1157A and 1156 bulbs are bayonet-base). Install the new bulb by inserting
into the socket (properly aligning the 2 pins on the base of the bulb with the channels for them
in the socket), and the rotating the bulb 1/4 turn once inserted.
Now - test the new turn signal bulb before putting it back together - this insures that the installation
of the bulb into the socket correctly aligned the (2) contacts in the base of the bulb socket.
Then: insert socket into headlight-turn signal assembly and rotate clockwise 1/4-turn to install.

Summary: remove socket by rotating 1/4-turn counterclockwise and pulling out.
remove 1157A or 1156 bulb from socket by rotating bulb 1/4-turn counterclockwise and
pulling it out
installation is reverse of removal.

One side of each crossbar has a key that engages the removal screw. If you have lost this, then perhaps the local Subaru dealer can help. Otherwise, you will have to drill the key lock out.

This sounds like a mass air flow sensor is malfunctioning. You should have a check engine light on. Or it should come on when it is hesitating. I would suggest taking it to Autozone and they will run diagnostics for free. And if it is the MAF sensor, then it will come up on their scanner.

Unfortunately, if you have the 2.5 liter engine in this car, there is a long history of leaking head gaskets. The gaskets leak internally, pushing combustion gases into the cooling system which disrupts coolant flow and causes overheating at inexplicable times. One surefire method of determining if this is the problem is to find a repair shop that can test the coolant for combustion gases. It's a chemical test, I believe, that's performed. Kind of like testing blood sugar. Not all shops have this capability, so you might have to call around. Good luck, if this is the case, the repair can be expensive. Make sure you get the updated gaskets from Subaru, they have gone through many modifications to fix this problem.

Usually when the light flashes, it is telling you that you could be doing damage to the catalitic converter. You need to have this scanned for the codes. Converters are not cheap items to replace. If you get the codes and a description of them, I can help
Randy

did any one ever change the motor in that car cause if so they hooked the vacuums up wrong had same issue

check if new battery is full loaded
with power
perhaps you have to load it before
used it in your car

Most Subarus have a switch on the top of the steering column that you usually can't see that allows you to leave your running lights on since most Subarus have the auto off lights. You should just have to switch that and it will be fine.

It sounds like you might have it a little out of whack, probably a good thing did it didn't start, you could have messed it up bad. Why did you replace the head gaskets?? Was it overheating? Were the gaskets bad? Did you mark the cams and belt before you took them off? Did you get a new belt? I would pull the spark plugs out, take the rocker covers back off, take the belt off, watch the cams, bring them around to their mark, bring the crank around to it's mark, make sure it is easy to spin, if not, you are hitting something. get the crank and the cams aligned on their marks and put the new belt with the marks on the belt aligned to the marks on the cam and crank. If the belt doesn't have marks, get one that does. Or put the marks on there. Check the old belt and see if it has marks on it. They help a lot. Once you get the belt on there and the tensioner set, spin the engine by hand and make sure it spins free, It should come around to the TDC mark on the crank again and again. Unless you forgot to hook something up, like the coil pack or a couple wires here and there. Check it out, Hope this helps.

Hello, first, you must remove the air cleaner housing Move the tube from the air cleaner and the intake on top of the engine by loosening the hose clamps at each end. It is still attached to a hose underneath but can be put out of the way

Remove the top of the air cleaner and the filter.

Remove the two 12mm bolts at each side of the bottom.

The side of the bottom is rubber gasket to the inside fender - just rotate slightly each way to loosen and pull off and put off to the side - there is still a wire attached.

Now pull off the spark plug caps on the side of the engine. This is a boxer engine which means the plugs are in a horizontal position on the sides. It is good to have a pair of spark plug pliers to do this as they are really difficult to remove. (spark plug pliers form a circle on the end when closed and are nice to grasp the caps with). Now you will need a 3/8 drive socket wrench, a 2" extension and a 5/8 deep socket Connect the extension and socket and feed it into the spark plug hole and over the spark plug. It is really deep inside. Now attach the wrench and remove the spark plug making sure you keep the tools level so as not to torque the plug side ways. Once the plug is real loose, unattached the wrench and hand loosen the plug with the extension because the wrench won't fit to remove the extension and socket attached. Remove the extension and socket and then spark plug. Put in the new plug reversing the steps.

Thanks