20 Most Recent 1998 Subaru Forester - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Number one don,t spray any water on the transmission any more, Number Two, Get it towed to a transmission shop to get checked out, Number three , Be prepaird for a nce (Hefty) Bill for the (Screw) Up.

thaty is a very big job to do

I agree with the other Expert, but the steering wheel lockup is puzzling. Do you mean it did not turn or was hard to turn? Now if the steering wheel locked in its Parked position, then the Ignition switch had to allow it. It would be consistent with losing the electric feed to the motor and things the other Expert said. Your Ignition switch may have turned itself off. Sometimes too much weight on a keychain is enough.If the car will start, it may be okay. But the inside of your Ignition may be coming apart or your Keychip is cutting out. You might want to change Ignition switches.

Possible dirty fuel injector which is most common. It can also be bad oxygen sensors, vacuum leak, or worst case a leak at the intake manifold.

Because they are the same fault but for different engine cylinders, so the same troubleshooting applies. Go here to read how to diagnose and repair misfires.

not really sure but all codes are for missfire cylinder ,do you get a bad smell from exhaust ? (rotton eggs), do you have low exhaust pressure ,put hand over exhaust pipe and have someone reve motor it should push your hand away. good luck , hope this helped.

Check ground connections.

change the motor oil. but catsh the oil in a bucket orso,listen while,the oil comes out if you dont hear any pieces falling in bucket.second you say near trans,is it an automatic.sound can travel far.

If clutsh turns off and on in close cycles, refrigerant/freon is low or needs a refill.

it probably is the starter. the solenoid is probably getting power but not the starter motor, it may have a dead spot on it, if you can make the starter move a bit, it might start, if so replace the starter. starters arent cheap though, if possible have someone test it before you start throwing parts at it.

Your engine needs basically four things in order to start:> Volumetric efficiency (V)> Air/fuel ratio (A)> Compression (C)> Ignition (I)V + A + C + I = POWERWhen there is no POWER (engine will nor start or run), it is because one of the parts of the equation is missing. PRELIMINARY diagnosis is to determine which parts of the equation are present and which are missing. Then PINPOINT diagnosis is to determine WHY the missing parts are missing.Until pinpoint testing is completed, nobody can do anything but GUESS what is causing your engine to not start.

Ok open your drain **** on the bottom of the radiator run a water hose at top where radiator cap is see if the water runout the bottom good if not then you do have a blockage. I would all sheck to see if bottom hose is real soft when you squeeze it if so replace it. Just make sure you put the right kind of antifreeze back in your radiator if it needs replace. There is the green and there is orange kind, if you have aluminum heads orange is best. I hope this helps you if you haven't already fixed the problem.