Top 20 1997 Subaru Impreza Questions & Answers

The wires and possibly bulbs are in the wrong sockets. Just swap0 them, high for low and low for high.

SUBARU Automatic Transmission Solenoid A Dropping Resistor July 2, 2011. Author: Lewis Werner The SUBARU automatic transmission dropping resistor is connected in parallel with duty solenoid A. Duty solenoid A regulates the Subaru automatic transmission fluid line pressure. Like most of the transmission solenoids, duty solenoid A's duty cycle is varied by the transmission control unit (TCU) to control the line pressure. The dropping resistor works with duty solenoid A in regulating the automatic transmission fluid line pressure. This resistor keeps a certain amount of current flow through duty solenoid A during the 'OFF' portion of its duty cycle. So in other words, duty solenoid A is never fully 'OFF'. The dropping resistor is located on the right front shock tower, near the MPI (multi-port injection) fuel system dropping resistor. The photos at the right depict the Subaru automatic transmission dropping resistor. If this resistor fails open, becomes disconnected, or has its wiring severed, one result might be increased shift shock. The reasoning behind this is that without the resistor in the circuit, the line pressure may be higher, since without the current passing through solenoid A during the 'OFF' portion of its duty cycle, it will tend to close further, and thus not bleed off as much pressure from the automatic transmission fluid pump. If the resistor fails open or is disconnected, it should cause the ATF temperature lamp to flash 16 times on the next startup, since the TCU would be able to see electrically that the resistor is open. This resistor was used on the SUBARU 4EAT phase I and 4EAT phase II automatic transmissions. It may also be used on the 5EAT though I have not confirmed it. http://www.scoobyenthusiast.com/subaru-components/subaru-automatic-transmission-solenoid-dropping-resistor

"...headlights are hooked directly to the battery" suggests that a previous owner had issues and wired it that way. The solution is put the circuit (not necessarily the original wiring) back to the factory state. What's probably happened is a bad ground for the headlight assemblies somewhere. It may also be that a short developed in the wiring harness, a not uncommon problem with many makes. What you (or your mechanic) need is the schematic to a) disconnect the previous owner's work; then b) trace the headlight/signal control circuits though the relays to the headlights and signals; then c) rebuild / repair as needed. This can be a lengthy process, be prepared to pay forthe work.

5 SPD? If so clutch could be gone and it's not engaging the ignition. That's option 1

https://www.google.com/search?q=where+is+the+fuel+pump+relay+located+on+a+2006+pt+cruiser&biw=1360&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi0i72o-qbQAhXLKyYKHXGEBrAQsAQIKQ#tbm=isch&q=WHERE+IS+NEUTRAL+SWITCH+ON+1997+AUTOMATIC+SUBARU+IMPREZA+SPORT+WAGON Hope this helps

Yes ..otherwise you might have it checked at the dealer or a competent mechanic

1) remove air bag ( unplug harness, harness cable/plug easily ruined, be careful) 2) remove steering wheel 3) remove bolts that hold control assembly (switch assembly which is all steering column switches, all one unit) 4) unplug harness ( sometimes you have a tie-wrap or a clip of some kind to remove or open too) 5) remove from steering column 6) reverse order for installation HTH

I don't think it is possible to see hat is wrong, when not sending next to the car. My way of working is checking how fat the voltage goes in the circuit. I use a multimeter and a cabling diagram for that. (and there is also a colour code for the cabling) In that way you end on the place where the power stops.Or even when the power comes to the motor and it does not turn, I know it is a motor. Sometimes it is just a lose contact or a bad ground (earth or return)

fuse #3 cigar/mirror yellow 20A its in the dash behind this little pocket door

yes. check the wire to the tag light, also any wire you can see in the chassis. your problem is most likely to be outside. best luck to you

Pull them all and look at them. This does two things. First it tells you that the fuse is bad. ( a break in the wire) second it gets rid of any corrosion problems. Corrosion is at least 25% of all fuse problems. I used to use a test light to check fuses. I haven't used it in years.

First find the fuse panel then visually check the fuses.

Remove cover at back of light ,remove wire clip that hold the globe in then remove globe and replace .

Your timing is fixed, controled by the computer and non-adjustable. Check spark plugs and plug wires. Is your check engine light on? If so, you need to check the code and repair acordingly. If no light, then you may have headgasket problems. Head gaskets will do just what you say is wrong and is a tipical Subaru problem.

Sounds like your cars battery is dead. Try charging it. Even if it starts after you charge it, it may need a new battery.

take off the knocker

Check clutch cable, check clutch lever, if there is some noise from the clutch when the engine is running, then the release bearing is most likely faulty, or even the clutch pressure plate.

replace cable or throw out bering

code p01132 refers to heated oxygen sensor(HO2S) 1--voltage low===causes--wiring---sensor---ECM . IT may be that the sensor is not communicating correctly with the ECM so the fuel settings are off. I would also check the fuel pressure in the fuel manifold to check --pump--regulator and filter.

Take it to an accredited auto electrician to get the best job.